Transvulcania is back!

The iconic race of sea, to summit and back to the sea has returned to its roots and the people of La Palma. Few races, anywhere in the world, have the magic of Transvulcania.

It’s more than a race, it’s an experience that transcends running. A 360 journey of location, culture, emotion and a journey to the core of what makes the sport of trail and mountain running so special, a unified glory of experience.

From the early morning start at the Fuencaliente lighthouse, the pounding drums and guitar of AC/DC and the words, THUNDER, THUNDER, THUNDERSTRUCK…!

The blackness illuminated by the glow of 100’s of headlights and then the upward journey begins through a landscape that makes the most well travelled smile with joy at the magic the GR131 route brings.

Los Canarious offers an opportunity for refreshment before single-track of black sand and rock weaves through pine trees and the eventual magnificence of the route of the volcanoes coinciding with the first light of a new day. A glimpse to the right, the sky a mixture of orange and blue, Tenerife and Teide visible and suddenly you feel like a plane, floating above the clouds in what many considering a life-changing moment.

The route winds and climbs down the spine of La Isla Bonita. From the highest point in the lower sections of the GR131 (1908m) in the Cumbre Vieja, the route drops to the micro-climate of El Pilar, one-third approximately of the route completed.

From here, cloud encapsulates the runner, some easy trails eventually give way to climbing, a myriad of single-track that weaves left and right and finally you break through the cloud to the most amazing views of Caldera de Taburiente National Park.

Reventon arrives, it’s one of the highlights of the route. With 40km’s covered, the GR131 is now above 2000m and ever so slowly the route creeps over the next 10km’s to the highest point at Roques de los Muchachos at 2403m, a rollercoaster ride of undulating and at times technical trails that offer a 360 panorama of this stunning island.

What goes up, eventually must come down and what follows is a 16km drop back to the ocean; a relentless knee, quad and mind blowing war of attrition that must be overcome. The iconic zig-zag descent provides an entrance to Tazacorte beach and the final aid station.

Beach gives way to canyon, canyon gives way to weaving paths through banana plantations before what seems like never-ending road before the glorious arrival in Los Llanos and the roar of the Palmero people.

This is La Palma.

This is Transvulcania.

The 2024 Race

Men:

As expected, the early pace was fast and a core group of pre-race favourites dictated the pace with 2023 champion, Dakota Jones at the front. Behind, Jeshrun Small, Jon Albon, Tom Evans, Dmitry Mityaev, and more.

As the km’s passed and the arrival of El Pilar came, Dakota suffered from the early pace and now, pre-race favourite, Jon Albon took over at the front with an inspired Jeshrun Small. Tom Evans, Thibaut Baronian and Dmitry Mityaev followed.

The elastic finally snapped and Jon made his move and opened a gap. It was on the final descent that Jeshrun relinquished second to his adidas Terrex team mates, Tom who had moved up from fifth and Dmitry who were now charging to the ocean in pursuit of The North Face athlete.

Jon arrived at Tazacorte and a course record looked possible. But as the climb to the finish came, the early pace and now heat was taking its toll. Jon was having to dig deep and the behind, the Terrex duo were pushing each other, Dmitry looking stronger than Tom.

But Dmitry did not attack… Maybe he didn’t know the 4-minute gap to Jon at the beach was reducing with each stride?

Jon crossed the line, exhausted, the 2024 Transvulcania champion. Behind, less than 2-minutes later, the duo arrived, hand-in-hand.

There was no course record but it was darn close. One hell of a race.

At the finish line, Albon (7h.03:10) crossed first, followed by Dmitry Mytiaev (7h.05:16) and Tom Evans who entered together at de finish line (7h.05:17)

Women:

Ruth Croft set the early pace and what a pace! For much of the day, it was a display of style, power and confidence. The performance only faltered at Roques de los Muchachos when a charging Ida Nilsson, three times Transvulcania champion, closed the gap to seconds.

It gave Ruth the wake-up call to push hard to the line, and push she did, not only resulting in victory but a new course record. It was a stunning performance that only confirms that currently, along with Courtney Dauwalter, Ruth Croft is one of the most exciting and dominant trail runners in the world.

It was glory day for Ida Nilsson, a La Palma favourite who ran another stunning race to secure second.

As always happens, there was drama behind and it was Nepali, Sunmaya Budha who finished third looking very fresh… There is more to come from this strong woman!

Ruth Croft (8h.02:49, record) won, Ida Nilsson (8h.16:32) finished second, and Sunmaya Budha (8h.20:31) closed the podium.

The Story:

As with all races, we have champions and we celebrate them. But the story of the 2024 Transvulcania is a return of the race to the island and people of La Palma.

“I didn’t have the day I wanted today,” said one runner. “But how can I be disappointed? It’s such a privilege to be on this island with these people enjoying what is one of the greatest races and places in the world.”

It was a sentiment that was echoed by many. There is something special here on this Canary Island.

I for one am already waiting for the 2025 countdown. This race should be a fixture for every dreaming trail runner and trust me, once experienced, one edition is not enough.

Finally, I give a special (personal) mention to a true inspiration of Transvulcania, the Maestro ‘Luis Alberto Hernando’, a three time champion of the race. He told me before the start, I am now 1-hour slower and I will be happy with top-20. He placed 12th after Thibaut Baronian acknowledging ‘The Boss’ on the line, bowing, and allowing the master to pass. What a moment.

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