THE MOUNTAINS WILL ALWAYS BE THERE

Romsdalseggen Ridge – photo 2020 w/ Abelone Lyng


After the deaths of Ida Amelie Robsahm and Kalie McCrystal, how should mountain runners think about risk, responsibility and the desire to live fully?

On Monday, I heard the tragic news that Ida Robsahm had died after a fall while running on Romsdalseggen in Norway.

I knew Ida personally, the news hit hard stopping me in my tracks and resulting in a flood of tears for the terrible loss of someone who had so much to live for. 

Ida at Fyri Trail, Norway 2024 – Photo by Ian Corless

Because she was doing exactly what all of us in the trail and mountain running community do. Because I had been running on that very Romsdalseggen ridge myself. Because, following the loss of Kalie McCrystal on the Matterhorn just a few weeks before – all these elements combined as another reminder of something many of us know, yet rarely choose to confront.

Life in the mountains is fragile.

We spend our weekends and holidays and free time seeking wild places. We climb ridges, traverse summits and follow faint trails into remote corners of the world. I photograph the beauty, celebrate the adventure and tell stories of freedom, challenge and discovery. What we rarely discuss is how thin the line can sometimes be between a perfect day in the mountains and a devastating tragedy.

A single misplaced foot, one loose rock, a momentary lapse in concentration – a decision that seems insignificant in the moment but mountain terrain often deals in consequences that far outweigh the mistake.

The uncomfortable reality is that every person who ventures into the mountains understands this, at least on some level. We know that nature is indifferent to our ambitions. We know that gravity never takes a day off. We know that weather can change in an instant and that the terrain beneath our feet is never entirely predictable.

Yet despite this knowledge, we keep going back. Why?

Whenever tragedy strikes, questions inevitably follow. Is trail and mountain running too dangerous? Should we be doing this at all? Are we taking unnecessary risks?

The answer is both simpler and more complicated than many people imagine.

Mountain environments are unquestionably dangerous. That is simply a fact. But trail and mountain running, statistically speaking, are relatively safe activities. Across the world, millions of hours are spent each year on mountain paths and trails. The overwhelming majority of runners return home safely without incident.

The problem is not necessarily the frequency of accidents. It is the severity of their consequences.

There is an important distinction between different types of risk – some mountain pursuits involve deliberate exposure – a runner moving across a narrow alpine ridge understands exactly what is at stake. The risk is visible. The consequence of a mistake is obvious. In many cases, that exposure forms part of the challenge itself. The commitment required is what makes the experience meaningful. 

“If death was not a possibility, coming out (of the mountains) would be nothing. It would be kindergarten, but not an adventure and not an art.” – Reinhold Messner 

Whether others agree with that reasoning is beside the point. For the person undertaking the challenge, the risk is understood and consciously accepted.

Trail running often occupies a different space. Most runners are not actively seeking danger. We are following a path, climbing a mountain path or traversing terrain that feels entirely manageable. The objective, usually, is movement, not exposure. We are not hanging from ropes or balancing across technical ground. We are running.

And perhaps that is what makes accidents so difficult to process. The risk feels low. Until it isn’t. One innocent mistake can suddenly escalate into something catastrophic.

When examining fatalities in trail and mountain running, several common factors emerge. Extreme weather leading to hypothermia is one. Cardiac arrest is another. Falls leading to blunt-force trauma remain among the most significant. (Reference here)

The first two can often can be mitigated, to a certain extent.

Hypothermia, for example, is frequently linked to preparation and decision-making. There has always been a culture within endurance sports that celebrates moving fast and light. In many situations that philosophy makes perfect sense. But fast and light should never come at the expense of safety. An extra waterproof jacket, an extra down layer will never make for an exciting story. Spare gloves and a beanie rarely feature in social media posts. Carrying emergency equipment may not feel heroic. Yet these small decisions can dramatically reduce risk when conditions deteriorate. Hence the requirement for mandatory equipment when we race.

Similarly, cardiac events remind us that fitness and health are not necessarily the same thing. Someone may be exceptionally fit yet still harbour an underlying condition. Regular health screening, routine medical checks and an honest understanding of our physical health cannot eliminate every risk, but they can reduce some of the unknowns. Just look at Jeff Browning at the recent TDS. Jeff is one of the most experienced, knowledgeable and respected trail and mountain runners – his near death experience should be a warning shot for us all.

Falls are different.

Falls are the one category that can never be entirely controlled. No one plans a fall. No one starts a run expecting to make a fatal mistake. No one leaves home believing they won’t return. A fall occupies that uncomfortable territory where skill, preparation and experience intersect with simple human error.

And human beings will always make mistakes.

And then we have skyrunning – this sport sits in a different category altogether. Born from the meeting point of trail running and alpinism, it deliberately takes athletes onto steep ridge lines, exposed traverses, loose scree and technical terrain where the consequences of a mistake can be far greater than a twisted ankle or lost minutes. The risk is not an unfortunate by-product of the sport, it is woven into its identity, it is its dna. Competitors sign up precisely because it demands more than fitness and endurance; it requires judgement, composure and the ability to move confidently through terrain that feels wild, remote and uncompromising. This is what separates skyrunning from pure mountain running. The challenge extends beyond covering distance or climbing vertical gain. It introduces an element of exposure and consequence that few other running disciplines can replicate, asking athletes to balance speed with self-preservation on terrain where the mountains retain the final say.

Perhaps because of that reality, my own relationship with risk has evolved over the years. Like many people, there was a time when I valued speed, commitment and determination above almost everything else. Pushing through difficult conditions was something to be proud of, turning back or easing off often felt like failure.

Experience has changed that perspective.

The greatest lesson the mountains have taught me is not how to keep going. It is knowing when not to. The mountains will always be there. That simple truth becomes surprisingly powerful with age.

A summit reached today is not inherently more valuable than one reached next month. A route completed in dangerous conditions is not automatically a greater achievement than one postponed. A race finish line is never worth more than the ability to come back and run another day.

Unfortunately, perspective is often shaped by experience. For me, one such experience occurred in Tromsø at the Tromsø Skyrace in 2017.

Hillary Allen, Tromsø Skyrace 2017 – photo moments before she fell.

I was there when Hillary Allen fell.

I witnessed the accident unfold. I climbed down to her, helped support her and remained involved until she was eventually airlifted to safety. Hillary survived. Her recovery became one of the most remarkable stories in mountain running. But witnessing the accident itself left a lasting impression.

What remains with me all these years later is not simply the severity of the fall. It is how ordinary everything appeared beforehand. There was no drama, on the contrary, I was joking and laughing with Hillary. One moment she was racing towards me and the next, everything had changed.

Seeing that reality up close removes any illusion that accidents only happen to other people.

Many mountain runners carry an unspoken belief: it won’t happen to me.

We may never say those words aloud, but the sentiment exists. We acknowledge risk while quietly believing that our experience, fitness or judgement somehow places us beyond it. The mountains have a ruthless way of correcting that assumption.

Experience can reduce risk, but it cannot eliminate it.

So how do we move forward when confronted by losses such as those of Ida and Kalie?

Perhaps the answer lies somewhere between acceptance and responsibility.

We should never romanticise death in the mountains. Every loss is a tragedy. Families lose daughters, sons, partners, friends and loved ones. The pain left behind is immeasurable. But equally, we cannot pretend that a life completely free of risk exists. Every meaningful pursuit carries risk, adventure contains uncertainty and our passions come with vulnerability.

For those of us drawn to mountains, the attraction is not recklessness. It is something much deeper. Mountains provide perspective in a world increasingly dominated by distraction. They challenge us physically and mentally. They expose weaknesses and reveal strengths. They offer moments of fear, humility, joy, wonder and achievement.

In many ways, mountain running allows us to experience the full spectrum of what it means to be alive.

The lows are real.

The highs are extraordinary.

Perhaps that is why we continue to return, not because we fail to understand the risks, but because we do. Life is finite, certainty is an illusion and to live fully, we want to experience everything that exists between birth and death: success and failure, fear and courage, loss and joy.

The challenge is not to eliminate risk. The challenge is to respect it.

As difficult as it may be to admit, perhaps the answer is that we must learn to live with an uncomfortable truth – mountains are places of extraordinary beauty, freedom and possibility, but they are also places where consequences can be severe – risks can be reduced, managed and understood, but they can never be removed entirely.

The correct equipment can help mitigate certain scenarios – Jotunheimen, Norway

Experience teaches us that there is wisdom in slowing down when conditions demand it. Wisdom in carrying the extra layer, in choosing safety over speed, in using more equipment rather than less when circumstances require it. Sometimes the strongest decision is to turn around without embarrassment or stop when instinct quietly tells us that today is not the day. Caution is not weakness, retreat is not failure.

Because the mountains do not care about our ambitions, they do not care about our race plans, our summit goals or the expectations we place upon ourselves. Long after we have left, they will still stand exactly where they are today. They will be there tomorrow, next week and next year.

The goal is not to conquer the mountains – they cannot be conquered, they are the boss. The goal is to enjoy a lifetime within them, to return again and again, collecting experiences rather than close calls – memories rather than regrets. To understand that success is not measured by summits reached, ridges traversed or finish lines crossed, but by the opportunity to come back and do it all once more.

Mountains have given many of us some of the most meaningful moments of our lives. They have taught us humility, resilience, perspective and joy. They remind us how precious life is precisely because they reveal how fragile it can be.

And so we continue.

Not because we ignore the risks, but because we acknowledge them. 

Not because we believe nothing can happen to us, but because we understand that a meaningful life is not found in avoiding every uncertainty.

__________

And finally, our thoughts, love and deepest sympathy are with everyone affected by these tragedies. To the families, partners, friends and wider communities of Ida and Kalie, and to anyone who has ever lost someone they love in the mountains or elsewhere, there are no words that can lessen such heartbreak. Grief is the price we pay for love, and the depth of that loss reflects the depth of the bond that remains. May you find comfort in the memories shared, strength in those around you and peace in knowing that the lives they touched will continue to be felt for many years to come. We hold you in our hearts.

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EPISODE 257 – Yngvild Kaspersen: The Two‑Time CCC Champion

Episode 257 dives deep into the remarkable journey of Yngvild Kaspersen, fresh off her commanding 2026 CCC victory — a pacing masterclass that made her the first woman ever to win the race twice.

We rewind to 2015, exploring her beginnings in skyrunning, the technical foundations that shaped her style, and the early promise that hinted at greatness. Yngvild opens up about balancing medical studies with elite racing, and the long‑standing question of identity: doctor who runs, or runner who is a doctor.

We revisit her post‑Covid struggles, the breakthrough CCC win in 2023, and her emotional chapter at Western States. Then we break down her flawless 2026 performance — patience, precision, and a late‑race surge that defined the week.

Finally, we look ahead: Western States 2027, UTMB 2028, and the next evolution of one of mountain running’s most intelligent competitors.

A decade of growth. A champion at her peak. A conversation not to miss.

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Two Victories, Two Philosophies, One Sport Learning From Both

Photo copyright UTMB

Yngvild Kaspersen’s win at CCC 2026 remains one of the most elegant demonstrations of restraint, patience, and self‑trust the sport has seen. By contrast, Ben Dhiman’s UTMB victory, was a masterclass in pressure, assertion, and deliberate intent. Together, they form a perfect study in contrast – two champions, two approaches, both equally valid, both equally brilliant.

The Yngvild Paradox: Doctor and Runner, Runner and Doctor

Yngvild has always carried a dual identity. A doctor. A runner. Two demanding worlds that often collide. She has openly admitted she struggles to decide which one defines her more – whether she is a doctor who runs or a runner who is also a doctor. That tension has shaped her career as much as her training.

Her trajectory since CCC 2023 has been anything but linear:

• 2025 Western States – 5th place, a breakthrough performance.

• 2025 CCC – DNF, a reminder of the sport’s brutality.

• 2026 Chianti – a brilliant run, showing her spark was still there.

• 2026 Western States – stopping just 2 miles from the finish, agonising, heartbreaking, human.

These are not the results of someone lacking talent. They are the results of someone balancing two vocations, two callings, two versions of herself.

CCC 2026: The Masterclass in Letting Go

Her approach to CCC was almost shockingly relaxed. No pressure. No expectation. She wanted to enjoy the day, run freely, and finish with a smile. That was it.

Yngvild ignored the front, she settled into her happiness zone, she ran her own race.

By Champex-Lac, she was outside the top 10 and 23 minutes behind the lead. Any analyst would have written her off. Any commentator would have assumed the podium was gone.

But Yngvild wasn’t analysing. She wasn’t commentating. She was running.

And then she switched on Pac‑Man mode.

Her legs felt great. Her stride opened. Her confidence grew.

One by one, she began to eat up the runners ahead – just like Pac‑Man clearing a screen. The gap shrank. The race changed shape.

Ahead, Miao Yiao and Toni McCann, both former CCC champions, were locked in a fierce battle. It looked like a two‑woman race.

Until suddenly, Miao Yiao came into view. Yngvild passed – calm, composed, assuming nothing.

Then Toni appeared. Yngvild passed again – sharing a handshake, then time‑trialling to the finish. Nothing was taken for granted, she learnt that lesson at Chianti – head down, push on and work hard. 

It wasn’t just a negative split. It was a clinic in pacing, a study in control, a lesson in emotional discipline.

One of the greatest second‑half performances the sport has ever witnessed.

Ben Dhiman: The Opposite Path to the Same Summit

Dhiman’s UTMB victory was built on a completely different philosophy. He laid his cards on the table early. He placed pressure on himself. He embraced expectation. He ran with intent, aggression, and clarity.

Where Yngvild floated, Dhiman forced. Where Yngvild released pressure, Dhiman applied it. Where Yngvild trusted the day, Dhiman shaped it.

Both approaches worked.

Both produced champions.

Both produced masterclasses.

Two Victories, Two Lessons

Yngvild teaches the value of patience, joy, and trusting your body.

Dhiman teaches the value of assertion, self‑belief, and embracing pressure.

Yngvild shows that sometimes the best race comes from letting go.

Dhiman shows that sometimes the best race comes from leaning in.

Together, they remind us that there is no single blueprint for success in trail running. The sport is too wild, too unpredictable, too human for that.

The Takeaway

Whether you run like Yngvild – calm, patient, joyful – or like Dhiman –  bold, committed, intense – the lesson is the same:

Find the approach that lets you be fully yourself. Then trust it all the way to the finish.

The sport has changed. It is faster, more professional, more demanding than ever before. The margins are razor‑thin, the pressure unrelenting, and the calendar packed with races that push athletes to their absolute limits. In this new era, even the best in the world may only get one truly exceptional race in a season – one day where preparation, physiology, psychology and luck finally align. Yngvild Kaspersen and Ben Dhiman reached their peaks through completely different philosophies, yet both reveal the same truth: in a sport this intense, brilliance is rare, fragile, and fiercely earned.

Dhiman the Demon HERE

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FASTPACKING – Fast and Light – What goes in the pack?

My recent trips ‘fastpacking’ in Norway have fuelled many questions about what is my kit list. So, here is an article the lists each item.

Firstly, what is fastpacking?

Essentially, in simple terms, fastpacking is the combination of hiking and running. Instead of running for just a few hours, or maybe for just one day, or hiking with a heavy pack for many days, fastpacking takes elements from the two disciplines – essentially moving FASTER and LIGHTER with all the items you need.

Fastpacking is distance trail running and ultralight backpacking rolled into one epic outdoor adventure. You’re moving fast – running, jogging, or power hiking – while covering long distances and carrying just enough essentials for a multiday journey. – REI

Now, to be clear, there are versions of fastpacking and which version you choose makes a big difference.

In Norway, and for my recent adventures, Abelone and I are moving from cabin-to-cabin and this makes a huge difference. Each night we will get food at the cabin, a place to sleep, warmth if required and the opportunity to (usually) dry clothes. We therefore can be very minimal.

By contast, fastpacking can also be with tent – in this scenario, it’s still possible to be light BUT you must carry a tent, you must have a sleeping mat and you will also need a sleeping bag. In addition, you will need to carry the food you need for the duration of the journey and/ or, you will need to plan for refuel stops.

The equipment list below is for cabin-to-cabin.

MY EQUIPMENT

During the SAGA or during the BREHEIMEN TUR, I carried the same equipment as listed below. Importantly, I consider what I am carrying on these tours to be the minimum and should I expect extreme cold, very bad rain conditions or a combination of the two, I would add to the list – I do not cut corners. I never compromise on safety and lightweight doesn’t mean underprepared.

Luxuries are typically kept to a minimum. As a photographer I indulge myself and carry a Fuji 100 VI which weighs 500g. I also carried a Kindle to have some downtime and escape with a book. For many, this would be an immediate 600g +/- saving.

Black Diamond Poles – fixed length not folding 168gr – Non folding poles are stronger and lighter

RAB Veil XP 20 Pack 476g – this pack is the best I have used and the main compartment is waterproof

RAB Alpine Light Down Jacket 252g – A little heavier than some options on the market but it is durable and very warm.

RAB Phantom Waterproof Jacket 116g – Super light and ideal for bad conditions in summer. Was I expecting daily rainfall or heavy rainfall for prolonged time or days, I would move up to a heavier and more durable jacket.

RAB Phantom Waterproof Pants 84g – Light and an ideal outer layer for when needed.

RAB Hut Slippers 198g – This was a luxury for SAGA and when I did Breheimen, I did not take them.

Devold LS Merino Top 200g – essential warm layer, I always use merino wool.

Devold Merino Tights 150g – ssential warm layer, I always use merino wool.

RAB Sonic Ultra T 96g – lightweight T should we get some very hot days

RAB Merino underwear 151g – merino is warm but also great for daily use

Injinji Merino Socks 45g – wool socks essential, I carry one spare pair

GORE Run Tights 300g – I debated if I should take or not and I was glad I did, on several days I was happy to have long tights and not shorts.

RAB Filament Beanie 18g – warm and light hat

RAB Filament Neck Tube 28g – great to stop drafts and ideal for other uses.

RAB Liner Gloves 18g – great as a thin warm layer or extra warmth inside other gloves.

RAB Pertex Mitts 65g – these are tthick and warm, essential for when the cold surprises.

Hestra Waterproof Mitts 50g – great protection as a stand alone or with liner gloves inside.

Toiletries – mini toothbrush, mini toothpaste and small deodorant 75g

First Aid kit 95g

RAB Bivvy Bag 105g

Plug and USB cable 60g – ideal for phone recharge, Shokz recharge and Garmin recharge.

Nitecore 10,000 battery 143g – lightweight emergency batter

Garmin InReach 113g – essential for safety.

Sleeping Bag liner 110g – required in DNT cabins.

Inflatable Pillow 46g – this is essential for me, I travel so much I love the consistency my own pillow gives.

Blindfold and Earplugs 10g – essential.

2x 500ml Bottles 49g x2 – 96g I used bottles in contrast to soft-flasks, a little heavier but I prefer the ones I use ny Ultraspire as they have a flat back which sits comfortably against the chest.

Total weight – 3268g

3926g with camera and Kindle

Wearing:

HOKA Mafate 5 315g – The Hoka worked really well except on wet rock, Vibram just does not cut it and without doubt, VJ Sport MAXx2 or ULTRA 3 is the shoe to use.

RAB Hat 52g – peaked hat to keep rain and sun off.

TNF Run Shorts 146g – they have an inner and therefore reduces the need for underwear.

Devold SS Merino Top 219g – I prefer merino, great in hot, cold or wet.

Shokz Openrun Pro 2 – some daily music escape is ideal.

SunGod Glasses – great for all conditions I use photochromatic so they adjust to the conditions.

FOOD AND DRINK

We get water from rivers and streams, there is an abundance of opportunities in Norway and for most of the time, although I have two bottles, I only fill one to save weight.

Importantly, wherever you are fastpacking, you need to research what is and what is not available on the route you take. No water? You need to plan and carry more.

Day snacks I would replenish each night from the cabin we stay at, be that a serviced cabin or an unserviced cabin – there are typically cereal bars, chocolate, snacks etc that you can purchase.

On tough days and when the option exists, I will take a bottle of soda as a backup – Cola, Fanta or similar.

In the cabins, we either have food provided by a serviced cabin, or, we make our own from the food supply shop.

THE REALITY

You have one set of clothes to move in.

You have clothes to change into after each day – typically merino top and bottom.

You have minimal extra layers for cold, rain and bad conditions.

Life is very simple and it is liberating.

You need to accept some days you will not wash, you have to accept that you and your clothes will be a little smelly as the days pass.

IN SUMMARY

Fastpacking appeals because of its simplicity. Planning, preparation, bring only the essentials and aim for items that are lightweight and versatile – importantly do not skimp on safety. There is a real pleasure in fine tuning kit, researching the best items and then bringing it all together. Be specific and adapt what you take based on the route and the weather conditions.

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LOFOTEN STAGE RUN 2026 – SIGN UP!

Lofoten Stage Run by the team at The Arctic Triple – Is the world’s most beautiful stage run, a rare kind of race that feels less like an event and more like a journey.

From 26 to 31 May 2026, a small group of just 30 runners will cross one of the most dramatic landscapes on the planet, moving step by step through mountains, fjords, beaches, and fishing villages under the returning light of the Arctic summer.

Set in Lofoten, Norway, this is a real multi-day adventure race spread over six days and four stages. The archipelago rises straight from the sea, with sharp granite peaks, narrow coastal trails, and open horizons in every direction. Late May is when the midnight sun begins to settle in, stretching the days and bathing the landscape in soft, golden light that never quite fades. You’ll run when the sun hangs low above the water, when shadows move slowly across the mountains, and when time feels different.

The race offers two distances. The 170 km Expedition Run covers four demanding stages between 34 and 52 kilometres, designed for runners who want a deep, physical immersion in the terrain. The 100 km Adventure Run follows the same spirit across four stages between 17 and 35 kilometres, offering a shorter but equally powerful experience. Both routes blend runnable sections with technical trails that require focus, respect for the landscape, and a steady rhythm rather than speed alone.

©iancorless

What sets Lofoten Stage Run apart is the way everything is woven together. From the moment we meet in Svolvær the day before race day, the experience is fully taken care of. Accommodation is comfortable, meals are generous and rooted in local flavors, and your luggage moves seamlessly from basecamp to basecamp. You run light, recover well, and wake up ready for the next stage. Every detail is designed so you can stay present in the experience rather than worry about logistics.

Each day on the trail brings something new. A climb that opens onto a wide fjord. A quiet stretch along white sand with turquoise water at your side. A remote valley where the only sounds are your breath and the wind. One stage begins with a boat ride into the heart of the landscape, delivering you to the start line in Kjerkfjorden, surrounded by steep walls of rock and sea. These are the moments that stay with you long after the race is over.

Evenings slow the pace. Warm dinners are shared around the table, stories traded between tired legs and smiling faces. With such a small field, the atmosphere stays personal and welcoming. You don’t disappear into a crowd. You become part of a temporary community moving together through a wild place. There is time to rest, to talk, to look out over the water and realise how far you’ve come.

The entry fee includes the entire package: five nights of accommodation, including the night before the race and the night after finishing, race registration, luggage transport, all meals from the first day in Svolvær until breakfast on day six, start kit, The Arctic Triple buff, service stations, first aid and evacuation transport, timing and tracking, warm dinner every night, the boat transfer to the starting line, and a quality finisher award. Everything is included so the focus stays where it should be, on the running and the place.

Lofoten Stage Run is not about crowds, noise, or chasing records. It’s about long days on epic trails, running beneath the midnight sun, and experiencing Norway at its most raw and beautiful. This is a race for runners who want more than a finish line, who are drawn to wild landscapes, shared effort, and the quiet magic that happens when movement, nature, and light come together.

Only 10-places remain for the 2026 edition, be quick!

Sign up HERE

©iancorless

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Episode 252 – ABELONE LYNG ‘DNT MASSIV’ (FKT) a ‘FUNNEST KNOWN TIME.’

You may assume it’s all about speed and pressure. Not this time. Norwegian runner, Abelone Lyng, put her own spin on the legend that is the DNT MASSIV TRAIL

A 364 km journey, and just under 13,000 m vertical gain across four national parks in Norway

Breheimen, Jotunheimen, Skarvheimen, and Hardangervidda.

In just 10-days, Abelone moved fast and light, unbroken, solo, yet utterly connected.

She didn’t chase a formal FKT.

She chased what she coined a “Funnest Known Time.”

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Also available on ANCHOR

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The Romsdal Method – A Gritty Ode to Community, Mountains & Method

The Romsdal Method, directed by Hans Kristian Smedsrød, is a raw, immersive journey into the rugged training ethos of Romsdal, a Norwegian valley transformed into a living, breathing performance lab. Inspired by Kilian Jornet and Emelie Forsberg, three elite/ultra athletes: Ida Nilsson (Sweden), Jon Albon (Britain), and Petter Engdahl (Sweden) join this hub to progress their careers. What begins as a quiet exploration soon morphs into a testament to friendship, mutual respect, and the transformative power of place-based training.

Group training

There are no egos here, on the contrary, there is a calm, understated respect of experience and knowledge. At the helm, the inspiration for Jon, Petter and Ida comes from Kilian who has pioneered the way for training in Romsdal.

Petter on roller skis

Petter sums it up in a moment of reflection:

“Being the best in Romsdal and being the best in the world is kinda the same thing, it’s what makes this valley so insane.”

Jon, the Brit, is very much the scientist, the thinker, the analyst. He has a dry British humour that even Kilian acknowledges. Jon is a legend of the sport, a powerhouse athlete and he is the calming element that binds the group of three. Training sessions for Jon need to make sense, they need to be specific. His unassuming presence and measured discipline highlight the balance between elite drive and heartfelt connection with place and people.

Jon being specific with training

Ida, with a career that stems back to track running is an introspective, warm, and has a complete dedication and passion for sport. Sincere, sometimes quietly exuberant, Ida is motivated to perform, she’s looking for performance gains but at the same time, as shown on a ski mountaineering trip on a beautiful day, just being in the mountains for hours is what makes this life tick.

Ida in the best playground pointing to which peak she will climb

Petter, is calm, quiet, solid. He’s about grit and focus. He’s the silent undertow who likes his actions to speak louder than words, providing testament to a man pursuing the edge. He moved to Romsdal to be with and train with the best; Jon and Kilian. He acknowledges, that sometimes, particularly in his first year, that this ‘training’ in itself can be too much.

Petter at the top of Nesaksla

In many ways it can be summed up with a sound bite from Kilian Jornet:

“And many of the routes where we are training, if you do a mistake, if you slide, it’s not that you will break your ankle or hurt yourself, it’s that you will die!”

Romsdal isn’t just a backdrop or place, it’s arguably the key protagonist of what shapes the story, the experiences, the life and the training of those who live there.

Towering granite, unpredictable weather, rivers through valleys, every scene in the film places Romsdal as central, it plays as a coach, mentor, and even antagonist. Ascending steep slopes, scrambling or racing up and down ski-mountaineering routes; the mountains demand creativity, humility and respect. As Jon says at the end of the film, this is maybe not the best place to live to train for many races that I do, but, I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else. Romsdal forces adaptation: intelligent, situational, and deeply rooted in respect for nature. A prime example coming from the Nesaksla session, which Petter admits, has been copied by athletes around the world.

Kilian Jornet

Kilian, the legendary Catalan mountain athlete, appears less as a star and more as a guiding spirit. His cameo moments, on screen and in conversation, provide quiet counsel: pushing boundaries, listening to one’s body, respect for the mountains, he  embraces why we move and he has an immense respect for his peers. Kilian has pioneered the way; his deep bond with the mountains humbles the athletes. He is arguably the spiritual north of Romsdal.

The film is called The Romsdal Method but there is no one answer here and Hans Kristian does a nice job of letting the location, the athletes and yes the weather, do a job of explaining that Romsdal requires creativity; multi-disciplinary skills, and community-driven training. A series of vignettes that show this, from epic ski mountaineering scenes, scrambling and climbing, cycling and yes, even the use of indoor sessions such as the treadmill.

Screenshot

It’s this layering of elements, skimo, run, scramble, climb, gym, cycle, heat work that defines the “method.” It’s adaptive, multi-modal, and very creative. It’s as much mental and communal than physical. And it’s deeply place-based: Romsdal is a training partner.

The first hour of the film lays the foundations for the Western States story, what sets The Romsdal Method apart is its emphasis on the collective group and how they each influence and help each others process.

These athletes didn’t relocate to Romsdal for solitude, they came to live and breathe together. From group runs, scrambling trips, skimo adventures and the sharing of knowledge indoors while next to a treadmill. Egos are not present, just respect: they challenge each other and they all listen and learn.

Hans Kristian made this a passion project. He spends the first 6-minutes of the film looking at a camera providing some history and outlining why the film came about. He’d be the first to admit that he came to this with little filmmaking experience and dare I say, this is arguably what makes The Romsdal Method appealing. Like the athletes, Jon, Petter, Ida and Kilian, Hans Kristian keeps the film raw and simple. There are some epic drone shots, wide angle shots of ridges, tight head-cams but ultimately, this is one man and a camera. 

At its core, The Romsdal Method is about belonging through movement. Each athlete finds clarity and authenticity through their pursuits and Hans Kristian manages to capture this through simple conversation.

A bigger budget could have added more effects, more cameras, extra editing time and countless other transformations, but, would it have made the film better? In a world chasing flashy results, screen time, and metrics, this film says: slow down, surround yourself with people who respect the story and let the athletes and the story do its job.

When we get to Western States, we are of course interested in the outcome, but, in many ways it almost seems secondary. Each athlete, of course, has a story to tell and each athlete performs at the highest level. Each viewer, I am sure, felt the pain of Petter’s fall and the potential disaster that this could create, his turnaround was phenomenal. We relish seeing Jon put the ice plan to use and make a top-10 debut in his first 100-mile race. We see Ida push with grit and determination and despite not feeling great, once again makes the top-10 and smashes the masters record. The Western States story is told both visually and with a series of post-race interview soundbites. The stories here just confirm that The Romsdal Method worked.

In conclusion, The Romsdal Method is not just a training film; it’s a journey into how place, community, and friendship can redefine performance. There are no shortcuts, it explains that a love for the sport, sweat, raw practice, and the joy of connection with others is what brings results. You, as a viewer are invited to reimagine your own training and ask simple questions of, ‘how do I train, where do I do it, who do I do it with and why?’

If you crave friendship, mountains, and the satisfaction of honest hard work, Hans Kristian’s film is essential. It may not be slick, but it has a genuine soul. And in a world drowning in disconnect, The Romsdal Method is a reminder that the deepest gains come not from gadgets, but from dedication, grit, passion all under taken under open skies that blanket Romsdal.

All images are used with permission of Hans Kristian Smedsrød ©

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Lofoten Stage Run 2025: A Wild Dance with Nature

There are races, and then there’s the Lofoten Stage Run by The Arctic Triple team. What unfolded in May 2025 wasn’t just a footrace; it was a deep, soul-grinding, awe-inspiring journey through one of the world’s most arresting landscapes. Four stages. Two distances, 170 km and 100 km. 

Across wild coasts, knife-edge ridges, fishing villages, and snow-streaked mountains, runners pushed their limits, and often redefined them, surrounded by the raw power and beauty of Norway’s Lofoten archipelago. Sleep came in hytte and seaside rorbuer; rest was fleeting, but memories were burned in.

Stage 1: Into the Wild – Kjerkfjorden to Nusfjord (39 km / 20 km)

The race began like a dream: a boat ride through cold, steel-blue fjords, cliffs rising on all sides like the jaws of some ancient creature. As runners disembarked at Kjerkfjorden, the silence was broken only by soft footsteps and shallow breaths, nerves on edge, anticipation sharp.

The terrain wasted no time. A steep climb out of the fjord led straight into deep snow patches and slick rock. Then came the surreal beauty of Kvalvika Beach, where sand met snow and the ocean roared its approval. For the 170 km runners, the day stretched long into the day, ending with a technical coastal section into the storybook village of Nusfjord. Legs screamed, but hearts were full.

Stage 2: Edge of the Earth – Nusfjord to Leknes (34 km / 17 km)

Day two was tougher. Tighter trails, more scrambling. The wind picked up, mist rolling in from the Norwegian Sea like smoke, rain fell, at times, hard and relentless. Between breaths, runners caught glimpses of jagged peaks piercing the sky and turquoise bays far below. This was Lofoten in full cinematic glory, wild, moody, and impossibly vast.

A tunnel under the sea added a surreal twist, legs burning as they climbed out of the darkness and back into the light. Offersøykammen offered panoramic views, but it demanded everything. As runners arrived in Leknes, drenched, scraped, and shivering, you could see it in their faces: wonder, pain, pride.

Stage 3: The Long Haul – Leknes to Rolvsfjorden (52 km / 35 km)

This was the crucible. The longest stage. Bodies were already breaking down, but the terrain opened up, longer runnable sections, smoother single track. The landscape changed too. From rugged coastline to sweeping highlands and serene lakes, this was Lofoten in its gentler form.

As the finish line at Brustranda Fjordcamping came into view, many had run out of words. “This is insane,” one runner muttered, grinning. “But it’s beautiful.”

Stage 4: The Final Push – Rolvsfjorden to Svolvær (45 km / 21 km)

The last day was emotional. Legs were dead weight. Ankles rolled. Minds fogged. But everyone knew what waited: the end, the reward, the moment of elation.

Jordtinden loomed: steep, snowy, relentless. At its summit, clouds lifted like curtains, revealing a 360-degree panorama that stopped runners in their tracks, the ridgeline ahead bringing a sense of awe and fear in equal measure.

This is the queen stage, the terrain bringing together all that makes Norway and Lofoten unique, marvellous and special.

You could see all the way back, mountains, inlets, the journey behind. Some cried. Some screamed. Some just stood there, stunned.

The descent into Svolvær was pure adrenaline, fuelled by joy and relief. The last stretch along the harbour felt like flying. Locals clapped. Teammates waited. People hugged. Some collapsed. Others danced.

More Than KM’s

But the Lofoten Stage Run wasn’t just about distance or finish times. It was about the strange intimacy of shared suffering, of strangers becoming friends over bowls of traditional Norwegian food and stories told in cabins. It was the moment you stepped outside at midnight, sun still hanging low over the sea, and realised how small we are.

It was the rawness of the terrain mirrored in every aching limb. It was the magic of Lofoten, weather that shifted like a mood, peaks that stabbed the sky, and a landscape that didn’t just surround you, it swallowed you whole.

In the end, it wasn’t a race, it never was, the Lofoten Stage Run is an experience, a 360 immersive journey that shocked the mind and the senses and revealed to each and every participant that this route, arguably, is one of the BEST in the world. It was a rite of passage. A storm-chased, mud-caked, heart-thumping reminder that the wild is still out there, and if you’re lucky, it might just let you in.

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Lofoten Stage Run 2025 – Experience the most magical place in Norway

The inaugural 2024 Lofoten Stage Run paved the way for what is Norway’s premiere multi-stage running event. Taking place over 6-days (4-days running,) the LSR event was inspired by the 170km solo event taking place under the umbrella of events titled The Arctic Triple – ski mountaineering, trail running and triathlon.

2025 will see the 2nd edition take place and once again two distance options will be available, 170km ‘Expedition‘ and the 100km ‘Adventure‘ run.

Expedition 170km – enter here

Journey the length of Lofoten in 4-stages

The full 170km single-stage race broken down into 4-stages.

Adventure 100km – enter here

A shorter, more manageable highlight journey.

While 100km may seen extremely manageable over 4-days, one must take into account the challenging terrain the race takes place over and the vertical climb and descent. This is not an easy option.

There is no better way to fully immerse oneself and experience that magic that Lofoten offers by moving under ones own power, running or walking. Lofoten is considered one of the most desireable places to visit in the world.

The Lofoten Stage Run has the added bonus of taking participants to hidden places, often only experienced by the most adventurous tourist.

After a tough day on the trails, each stage concludes with a typical Norwegian Hytte experience with excellent local cuisine, a shower and of course a comfy bed. Participants luggage is transported each day, so, while running, you can travel lighter and faster. 

The Lofoten Stage Run is designed to be a running holiday, however, do not be fooled, those cozy and comfortable evenings are worked for. The terrain and weather in Lofoten is challenging; a mixture of all terrains and elements that can bring for many, the ultimate challenge.

THE EXPERIENCE

Taking place during week 22, participants need to be in Svolvær on May 27th for a transfer to Reine and a stay at Reine Rorbuer. Located in the western part of Lofoten, at the entrance to the Reinefjord, lies the stunning fishing village, considered one of the most beautiful in Norway.

Wednesday, stage 1, starts with a boat trip from Reine to Kjerkfjorden. The route ahead, 39km’s for 170km race and 20km for the 100km. The opening 10km’s a real challenge with tough climbs, technical terrain, snow sections and soft/ boggy ground. Kvalvik beach offers some opportunity for flat terrain before a steep climb and eventually a descent to Fredvang and checkpoint. Here the 20km distance stops. A road section leads to Nesland for the 170km runner’s and the final technical trail sections before arriving in the picture postcard, Nusfjord and the Nusfjord Arctic Resort– a tough day!

Stage 2 at 34km’s (17km for the 100km starting at Napp) concludes at  Lofoten Rorbuutleie another amazing location surrounded by sea and mountains. The early route to Napp bringing many a challenge, technical trails and mild hands-on scrambling sections before sweeping single-track with stunning views. Road gives way to coastal trail and another road section before arriving at Lilleeidetholmen marina, the buildings are located with water on both sides and direct access to quays and floating docks.

Stage 3 for 170km Expedition runner’s is the long day, covering 52km’s with arguably the most ‘runnable’ terrain of the whole week. For the 100km it is also a long day at 35km starting at Rolvsfjorden.. Technical aspects are reduced and much of the route is single-track interspersed with some road. The finish at Brustranda Fjordcamping once again offering a wonderful Norwegian hytte experience of cabin surrounded by water and mountains.

Stage 4, the final day at 45km’s brings some of the most technical terrain of the whole Lofoten Stage Run experience, especially the climb to Jordtinden and the ridge that follows with some exposure form an ‘airy’ single-track, snow fields and at times, challenging terrain. The final peak of Tjeldbergtinden a final challenge before the run in to Svovær and the conclusion of four magical days. For the 100km runner’s they cover the last 21km starting at Kleppstad, and yes, they get to experience Jordtinden, the ridge and the final summit of Tjeldbergtinden – it is the highlight section of the whole Lofoten Stage Run.

After the race, a meal at the event hotel, Thon Hotel Lofoten, where the focus is some of the best local food from the area. A perfect evening to share new and old stories with your new friends and relive the magic of Lofoten and the Lofoten Stage Run.

THE RUN

170km or 100km, one thing is for sure, running in Lofoten is tough and challenging. Terrain constantly switches from demanding and technical sections to easy flowing single-track. Experience, excellent endurance and an ability to handle technical and challenging terrain is required for those who sign up for the 170km.

The same requirements apply for the 100km distance, however, the shorter distance does allow for a considerably slower pace and more walking. Rest assured, the 100km is not an ‘easy’ option, it is a real Norwegian mountain experience, especially the 21km on the last day.

The Lofoten Stage Run is all about enjoyment and experiencing the best of Norway, not only its magical terrain but its hytte and food.

It is no coincidence that this is called a run and not a race, the ultimate relaxed trail running experience that brings so much more than just running. Traveling point-to-point, on foot, experiencing the magnificence of Norway. Stunning trails, majestic mountains, resplendent views, and all during the endless daytime of the midnight sun. It gets no better!

Experience Lofoten.

Experience the Arctic Circle.

Experience the midnight sun.

Experience the majesty and beauty of Norway under your own power.

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Home of the Giants 2024 Summary

The view from Kyrkja

Home of the Giants 2024 has just come to a conclusion. And what a week it has been.

This trip came about through personal adventure in the Jotunheimen mountains of Norway and the desire to share and showcase this magical playground.

Baz at the summit of Kyrkja

What is Home of the Giants?

A multi-day adventure, 6-days in total, through a magical and challenging landscape. Unlike a race, this journey was created as a finely balanced exclusive trip for up to just 12 participants. A challenge at a more relaxed pace, taking in an amazing route whilst moving light in a semi self-sufficient mode using DNT cabins for overnight accommodation.

Lake Bygdin

Based around the concept of stage races, Home of the Giants is about moving lighter and therefore faster with a minimum amount of equipment without compromising safety. All we needed could be carried in a small pack weighing approximately 3kg (plus liquid).

It is important to emphasize that Norway can have spring, summer and winter in one day. Never underestimate the challenge of the environment. It is all well and good being light IF you can move fast. You also need to consider the ‘what if’ scenario and should you become slow or a worst case scenario, injured and waiting help/ rescue. At a minimum you MUST have merino top and bottom, warm insulating layer (down or PrimaLoft) waterproof jacket and pants, hat, gloves and a bivy bag. I also strongly recommend a product such as Garmin InReach. Much of Jotunheimen has no phone connection, an InReach with emergency SOS button, for me, should be mandatory.

You can see an example of my pack below and the details are as follows:

  • Camelbak Octane Pack 600g
  • adidas hat 32g
  • adidas gloves Infinitum 52g
  • Hestra waterproof gloves 53g
  • adidas gloves 41g
  • Devold merino base top 193g
  • Devold merino base bottom 166g
  • Buff 43g
  • Haglofs down jacket 163g
  • adidas waterproof pant 125g
  • adidas Gore-Tex jacket 272g
  • Rab bivvy bag 110g
  • Underwear 98g
  • Gels 81g (for emergency)
  • Silk liner 126g
  • Blindfold/ earplugs 22g
  • Earphones 44g
  • Ricoh GRIII camera 251g (a luxury)
  • Sunglasses 18g
  • Bottles x2 90g
  • Katadyn water filter 52g
  • Toiletries 196g
  • Power supply 138g
  • Phone 136g
  • Garmin InReach 108g
  • Leki poles 250g

3379g 

Staying at DNT staffed cabins provides the best of both worlds, they provide a bed for the night, dinner, breakfast, a packed lunch and they have additional facilities such as relaxation areas, showers and a bar. It’s the ultimate way to travel light in the mountains. Beds are in dorms or private rooms that depending on the cabin can be solo, double, triple, quadruple or five plus. Most DNT’s have a rule that irrespective of if you arrive and there are no beds, you will not be turned away, so, rest assured, a safe haven is always available.

OUR JOURNEY

Day 1 – Oslo to Bygdin

We departed Oslo bus terminal at 0830 Monday for a direct trip to Bygdin Fjellhotel. The journey taking 4-hours with a 15-minute break ideal for a midday arrival. The weather was grim with torrential rain for most of the way. It was an ominous start and constant glancing at weather apps confirmed that our week ahead would have mixed weather. It’s Norway after all!

Synshorn summit

Arrival at Bygdin was seamless and after a break at 1500 we departed in the rain to take in the summit of Synshorn (1464m) which is a great introduction to Norwegian mountain terrain. The plan was initially to just summit and return, a 75-minute journey at a steady pace. However, the weather, although still wet, was not cold and after long travel, we all decided to continue for a back-up and planned 12km route. We followed the ridge north to Heimre Fagerdalshøe (1510 m above sea level) with a great view over Bygdin to Falketind. We then continued in the direction of Synsbekk and connected to the ’T’ marked trail that would bring us back to Bygdisheim and the lake for a short gravel road section back to the hotel.

Day 1 loop

It was a great intro to the week and then we could enjoy the benefits of Bygdin Fjellhotel – a warm shower, sauna and a lovely traditional Norwegian dinner.

Day 2 – Bygdin – Eisbugarden – Skogadalbøen

M/B Bitihorn

It was a casual start to the day with a hearty breakfast and then meeting the M/B Bitihorn boat at 0900 for a transfer the length of Bygdin lake (stopping at Torfinnsbu) and then continuing to Eidsbugarden.

Lake Gjende
Torfinsbu self-service DNT

By 1100 we were ready for our first full day, Eidsbugarden to the remote Skogadalbøen DNT cabin. The route is considered very demanding due to the nature of the terrain. It’s very important when looking at routes in Norway that you never focus too much on the distance but more the time it will take to cover the distance. Depending on the time of year, this route can have a great deal of snow, so, be careful and do research in advance. For us, we had several snow fields to cross and all were in good condition.

Eisbugarden to Skogadalbøen
DNT mark the routes with red Ts

Our weather was glorious, blue skies, white fluffy clouds and amazing views.

Plenty of water crossings

A short road section and a right turn and we were already climbing through saturated and boggy ground to Sløtafjellet. Then the rocks and boulders started.

Beautiful but hard terrain

This route has a ‘reputation’ for the rocky terrain and hence the difficulty rating. It’s hard to move fast! The route climbs up passing lakes and at all times you are surrounded by stunning snow-covered peaks – magical.

sign posts help keep you on track

Arriving at Kvitevatnet lake you keep to the left and at the end climb up towards Uradalsvatnet lake, againkeepin to the left.

Lakes, rocks, snow and mountains. Perfect!

Passing through Uradalen the route eventually reaches its high point and then the descent starts through more ‘runnable’ terrain towards Skogadalsbøen.

The terrain became ‘easier’ towards the end of the day.
And more vegetation.

Of course, there is a kick in the tail with more rocks and very closed in and dense single-track with lots of mud. We covered 24.5km, 670m+ in 4h 55m. Geoff and Baz were pretty tired at the end, and I think it’s fair to say that Baz had seen and experienced enough rocks and boulders to last a lifetime. My reply was always, 1this is Norway, this is Jotunheimen!’

A nice sight after a long day

My girlfriend, Abelone, had initially planned to join Home of the Giants. Our intention, two groups of 4/5-people. However, in the buildup to the event we had 6-people cancel – not ideal. These cancellations caused many logistical problems and of course, there was never any risk of cancelling, but it did mean that Abelone was not needed to guide a group. However, she was on holiday with her son Håkon (10) and after summiting Fannaråki they joined us at Skogadalbøen DNT.

As usual, we had an amazing three course dinner, a lovely evening of banter and then a good night’s sleep.

Day 3 – Skogadalbøen to Leirvassbu

Day 3 with a moody start.
Skogadalbøen to Leirvassbu

Skogadalbøen to Leirvassbu is in comparison to the previous day, an easy route. Even though UT.NO describe it as a ‘very demanding summer route.’ Håkon had decided he enjoyed the group dynamic so much he wanted to also do the 19km route. He and Abelone got underway and some 30-minutes later we started.

Passing them early in the trail we had a group photo and pushed on. Today was a running day, albeit steady and relaxed. Geoff and Baz had big smiles; I think they almost considered it a rest day after what had been experienced the day before.

Green valleys surrounded by mountains

The ground constantly wet and boggy, the weather was overcast and cloudy with occasional light drizzle.

Many water crossings

Passing through Storutladlen and onwards to Gravdalen it was a great feeling day. The views and landscape ever changing. After passing Gravdalsdammen, we soon joined an undulating gravel road that took us to Leirvassbu DNT.

Leirvassbu DNT

On the approach, Kyrkja (2032m) was to our right, shrouded in mist and clag. Today was not the day to attempt the summit. After 19.68km, 811m of vert we finished in 3h 34m. Abelone and Håkon arrived a couple of hours later, Håkon sprinting ahead with a smile. What a joy to see. Geoff and Baz were blown away by Håkon’s speed, enthusiasm and commitment. 

Entertainment by Håkon

Early finish and we could then rest, relax, enjoy the Leirvassbu DNT and prepare for the following day. Leirvassbu DNT is a large and modern cabin with no dorms, a large bar area and an excellent restaurant. A stunning location surrounded by mountains, a great place for staying more than one night as there is lots to explore. It has road access, so, it can be accessed by private car or bus, worth knowing just in case you need a contingency escape option.

DNT dinner always a highlight

The weather forecast for the following was good and it was therefore decided we would summit Kyrkja first and then continue to Gjendebu. Abelone and Håkon would miss the summit go straight to Gjendebu and therefore miss out on the 2 to 3h detour.

Day 4 – Leirvassbu to Gjendebu via Kyrkja

Kyrkja

The weather gods did not disappoint. It was a stunning day and a perfect morning to climb Kyrkja.

Leirvassbu to Gjendebu via Kyrkja
The early slopes to Kyrkja, Leirvassbu on the right

Abelone and Håkon left just before us they made their way to Gjendebu, we soon caught them, passed and then we started the climb to the summit. The early slopes mix trail, rock and snow crossing with boulders everywhere.

And up we go

Once at the base of Kyrkja, the climb really starts and it’s a hands-on scramble to the summit. Cairns are placed regularly and at times the route is obvious. Other times, the route is vaguer.

Good hand and feet placement important.

There are several sections with more exposure when sound had-holds, and secure foot-placing is essential. It’s not a difficult scramble but as with all these things, going at a calm and steady pace reaps rewards.

Slow and steady

Geoff certainly felt pushed here. He is not too happy at heights, but he pushed on, listened to to best route options and before he knew it, he was with Baz at the summit.

Job done!

The 360 views here are quite magnificent. What goes up must come down and depending on your ability, head for heights and skill level, the downward route can be harder than the climb.

Coming down easier than going up?

All three of us were soon at the bottom and re-tracing back on the trail to Leirvassbu and then at Høgvaglen we turned left and started to follow the red Ts on the route to Gjendebu.

Øvre Høgvagltjønnen

The route now is more runnable mixing rocky terrain, water crossing, fjell, single-track and of course mud.

Passing three key lakes, Øvre Høgvagltjønnen, Nedre Høgvagltjønnen and Langvatnet we were soon descending next to Hellerfossen waterfall and then passing through Storåddalen.

Make sure you follow the correct Ts

The trails now were saturated and muddy and considerably greener than what we had experienced earlier in the day. There was also plenty of cows.

You never have dry feet!

Before we knew it, we were running into Gjendebu after a stunning day of 25.69km, 741m of vert and 4h 42m on the clock. Baz and Geoff jumped in the lake, I got the beer in.

Day done.

Sitting in the sun, I wondered where Abelone and Håkon where? I had absolutely expected them to be here before us BUT there had been a chance that we may, have caught them in the last km or so… Apparently, Håkon was on a mission to beat us, and he ran the final 3km! What an effort by him, incredible. We had expected them to take 6-hours, and they had taken 5, bravo!

Gjendebu is a wonderful DNT and the oldest. It’s wonderfully traditional and recently refurbished. Comfort level is high, service superb and food excellent.

Day 5 – Gjendebu to Gjendesheim via Bukkelægret, Memurubu and Besseggen

The view from the iconic Besseggen Ridge

Leg 1 Gjendebu to Memurubu

Gjendebu to Gjendesheim

I took no photos for this day, the weather was too bad, so, enjoy the image above of a considerably better day with Abelone.

Our longest day ahead and the weather forecast was rain all day. We were committed with our route BUT as always, sense and forward thinking was key. Our route was a two-day route, Gjendebu to Memurubu one day and then Memurubu to Gjendesheim day two. To do the whole lot in one day does require a fast and light approach.

The first leg is 11km and at Memurubu we had the option to pick up the boat to our finish, should conditions deteriorate.

The early km’s follow a single-track rocky and muddy trail next to Gjende lake. After 4km you turn left and then steeply climb. This section, Bukkelægret, is renowned as being difficult, especially in bad weather due to the gradient, slippery rock and the multiple chain sections. UT.NO say, ‘Chains and railings in exposed places. NB: Do not go outside the marked path! It is the only possible decrease. It is better to walk in the opposite direction if you are afraid of heights or choose the longer route around Storådalen.’

The route up was fine and although the rain was constant, we were all warm and enjoying the climb.

Once at the top I made a silly navigation error. I turned right following a trail that leads towards Kjuklingen. Within less than a km I knew I was wrong. I stopped, took a moment and then Baz, Geoff and I backtracked. While running I looked to the right and could see the trail up the other side of the mountain and eventually, we picked back up the red T’s and we were back on track. A frustrating mistake but these things happen!

Travelling northeast into Lågtunga, between Grunnevatnet and Sjugurdtinntjønne and down over Sjugurdtinden. We had a stunning moment when we were confronted by a large male Reindeer. We dropped to a walk and approached slowly. At the time I expressed how unusual it was to see one alone. But, as we crested the summit, a herd of maybe 20-30 reindeer were visible, what a sight!

The final descent to Memurubu is steep, rocky and slippery – care is needed, especially in torrential rain.

At Memurubu we entered the cabin and took an ‘aid station’ break of warm coffee and buns. I changed base-layer to a dry merino top and prepared for the next section.

We had had rain all day so far, but it had been pleasant in type 2 kind of way. Baz and Geoff decided to wear tights, I stayed in shorts. The option to pull out and take the ferry was not really an option, we were committed to the task.

Leg 2 Memurubu to Gjendesheim

The climb out of Gjendebu is steep and I soon removed my jacket, there was a hint of better weather coming and I loudly said, ‘it is clearing up!’ Famous last words…

The jacket soon came back on, and the rain increased. I was now on my second set of gloves, good old Raynauds in the hands brutal in bad weather.

This route is one of the most popular in Norway. Many take the early boat to Memurubu from Gjendesheim and then return via Besseggen, an average time taking 7-hours. On a good day there are many, many people. Today, hardly anyone.

The terrain is hilly and rocky as we headed to the foot of Besshøe and then on to Bjørnbøltjønne, the highest point on the route before heading down to the southern end of Bessvatnet.

Now we were at Besseggen, the steep climb ahead of us and Geoff loudly saying, ‘Are we going up there…!’

I reassured him it was not as bad as it looked. However, the steep rock face has an extra challenge in the rain. We stared the climb and soon came across a group of teenagers frozen on the mountain unable to proceed. They were questioning the decision to come this way, and they asked Geoff what time the last boat was at Memurubu! Unfortunately, they would not make the last boat if they backtracked, however, the cabin would look after them.

Ahead I heard screaming and crying. It got louder as I climbed only to find a mother trying to climb with a young girl who was beyond terrified. I offered help but it was refused. ‘We will be fine; she is just very anxious and scared.’ No shit I thought to myself. As I climbed up, I saw her husband and another child. They had back-up help but I stopped multiple times to make sure that I was not leaving a potentially disastrous situation.

Geoff and Baz were making good headway, every 5 to 10m I would stop and make sure their line was good.

The 350 meter climb up to the top cairn on Veslfjellet 1743m soon passed and now the weather was wild.

Wind was raging in from the right, the rain was torrential and the visibility poor.

We regrouped and I clearly expressed that we NEEDED to move. It was no stopping and all running now down the, at times, steep and rocky descent to Gjendesheim.

This was without doubt the hardest hour of the whole week and clearly demonstrated how Norway, as beautiful as it is, can turn wild and violent.

Soon we were on the final stone steps that lead to the DNT and lake Gjende.

We were absolutely soaked and exhilarated with the day. It was true Norwegian mountain day, and we had completed the whole 26.1km with 1800m vertical in 6h 30m on what was a very tough and slow day.

All three of showered for a good 15-minutes. A cold beer followed quickly and before we knew it, we had another wonderful 3-course meal with Reindeer as the main course.

The evening was chilled and relaxed. We had a short concert of traditional music, and we discussed the completed adventure.

My offer for a following morning run was very quickly turned down.

A good sleep and the following day we departed at 1400 for a direct bus to Oslo and onward travel.

What a stunning week!

Thoughts and Summary

He got the T shirt 🙂

For me, there is no better way to travel through the mountains of Norway than by cabin-to-cabin. What the DNT offer is a five-star service and it really is a privilege to have this available. A shower, a bed, hot meals and a drying room for apparel and shoes is stunning.

Few people travel fast and light, they prefer to move at a slower pace with loads of equipment and take long stops and plenty of sight-seeing.

However, fast and light allows for a faster pace, the option to cover more distance and ultimately, more relaxation times in the cabins.

You do need to be experienced and prepared to move in this way.

Magical

In sunny and beautiful weather, fast and light is easy. In bad weather you need to be prepared, constantly making judgement calls and adjusting speed so as to ensure you are safe. Our final day a prime example.

We were well prepared and all three of us had the right and correct equipment for the planned adventure. The option to change a base layer at Memurubu for me was spot on, as was the decision for Baz and Geoff to move out of shorts and into tights. Despite the torrential rain, wind and colder temperatures, all three of us still had emergency layers of insulated jacket, waterproof pants and a bivvy bag available in our packs.

We all brought poles and on day 1 we used them a great deal, less so after. Geoff broke a pole on day 1 which was frustrating. However, when finished, Geoff said he would not bring poles next time. I understand his thought process, but, the additional weight of just over 200g is an excellent security blanket if moving slower or picking up an injury. Just learn how to use pols before.

The full route

Due to the nature of the DNT layout, sometimes we were not in the main building, and we all wished we had brought some very light flip-flops. I am now searching the internet for the lightest and most practical.

Good shoes are essential and normally I would never say YOU MUST get these shoes, but VJ Sport shoes and the amazing Butyl outsole are the only run shoes that can be relied on for Norwegian rock, especially when wet. Geoff and I wore VJ, me in the MAXx2 and Geoff in the Ultra. Gaz wore Altra and he had no grip – it compromised his enjoyment.

Norwegians have a saying, there is no bad weather, just bad equipment. It’s very true. We had mixed weather for our trip and in all honesty, it made the trip better. I never took my camera out on the last day as the weather was so bad, but I absolutely loved the challenge of making that route in bad conditions. Just a shame Geoff and Baz did not get to see those iconic Besseggen views down the lake and the surrounding area.

Finally, if you are interested in joining us in July 2025 for a similar journey, please get in touch. We will have 8-places available.

Jotunheimen, one of the best places in the world.

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