American ultra-runner, Michael Wardian, sets a new Fastest Known Time (FKT) for the Israel National Trail, covering the 631-mile journey, south to north.

 10-days 16-hours and 36-minutes (tbc)

The un-planned stop at Arbel last night proved to be a blessing in disguise. It had been a tough call to re-work logistics and abide by National Park rules and not enter from Arbel after darkness. However, after a discussion with Mike, it was absolutely clear that we must do the FKT by the rule book.

Mike had felt rough all day and arriving at Arbel 2223 after a very tough day allowed time for a nap, then dinner and a good 4-hours sleep. 

When we woke at 4am, he had that fire in his eye and it was clear he was feeling good. He relaxed preparing his kit, hydrated and then had a hearty breakfast. At 5am, Roman arrived to pace Michael and at the first glimmer of daylight, the duo departed into a technical section within the National Park.

At Hokuk Bridge, Mike and Roman arrived at 0640 and now the duo had increased to nine. The level of support that Mike has received from the Israeli community, is nothing short of wonderful – this journey would have been so much harder without them!

The first 40km of this day involved technical sections and a great deal of climbing. This group navigated and set an incredible pace that just increased Mike’s mood, particularly after the previous day’s efforts.

 HaPitul at 1035 and then a climb through a dense section strewn with rocks and flowing river. I ran with them here and the pace was hot, for Mike to be running this fast so far into this FKT is nothing short of remarkable. He was being pulled by the energy of the group and almost pushing them to go faster. On all the steeper section, he would drop to a walk and use his poles to maintain a good speed. The banter within the group was special. At all times they talked to Mike,

“Are you ok?” 

“Do you need anything?”

“Can I get you anything?”

“Dude, keep pushing, you are killing this today…”

At Mt Meron top Parking, 1139, the major technical section was done and what followed was an open, exposed and non-technical climb followed by a fast descent to Hamama Ruins – they arrived 1234.

Ramon had been pacing since the very start, but he could not resist another additional 9km to the next meeting point. Avi was also back, if you read my earlier daily posts, Avi paced in the desert on the more technical days.

 With approximately 50km’s of the INT left, it was clear that Mike was starting to smell the finish. I asked, “Is the pace too high Mike?” 

His reply, “Am gonna take all the fast pace I can get, who knows when I am gonna feel bad again, look at yesterday…”

 And with a ‘Thank you everyone,’ Mike pushed off for the next leg to Nahai Dishon. The group arrived at 1400 and the pacers looked worked, “He is running so fast, it is unbelievable,” more than one exclaimed. Mike slumped in a chair and for the first time in the day I could see a little cloud appear. The heat of the day was punishing him and a sore right thigh (from a Cactus needle) was irritating him. He ate, drank and looked around with a hollow gaze. His eyes had an empty look.

“How far to go?”

“Don’t worry about the distance Mike, focus on getting it done, the end will come!”

 “Darn right, we are doing this!” 

He left with Avi and Uri at a walking pace, a sandwich in one hand, poles in the other. The following 6km were no doubt going to be a pivotal point in the day, a good section making good time and Mike’s mood would lift, a tough slow section may send him the other way.

At Wadi Dishon, the three arrived and Mike looked in a better place. He refueled, changed socks and shoes and left at 1515. The next section of 14km’s included the last significant climb of the day, once this was over, it was a relatively ‘easy’ run to the line.

But nothing is easy after 10-days and 600+ miles!

It’s worth noting that Mike has been so positive during this FKT. Despite the lows he has remained positive, focused and polite – he is a true gent!

As daylight finally started to leave us for the last time on the Israel National Trail, Mike and his pacers arrived at Yesha Junction. The past trail section had been ‘crazy technical’ in the words of Mike, but from here the run to the end was considerably more relaxed.

Sitting in a chair, another sandwich was devoured in seconds, coconut water was consumed, and a few mouthfuls of Coke were followed by, “I will have no teeth left after this FKT!”

 From here, the final push would come, Zoli had reworked the schedule to facilitate three checkpoints before the finish in Kibbutz Dan.

 The small group of five left and `mike looked eager to be done with the final miles as soon as possible. Dropping down to river bed, climbing up and finally the running was good. in the night sky, the glow of ‘Qiryat Shemona’ and ‘Krar Gil’adi’ would eventually lead to the finish of the INT in ‘Dan.’

The journey was completed in a wave of emotion.  

it’s difficult to put into words a 10-day journey of 631-miles. Especially when someone has run the whole distance. I have to say, mine was one of relief. Mike had done it. He had achieved his target of running the INT in 10-days and to be part of the journey is beyond rewarding. I witnessed intense highs and lows. So, to finally watch Mike touch ‘home’ and finally be able to stop, I had relief and immense satisfaction of a job well done. 

I truly believe Mike, and maybe us all will need more than a few hours to comprehend the new record, for now though, Michael Wardian is the new record holder of the FKT for the Israel National Trail.  

A huge congratulations Mike from myself and the team! 

#iwasthere

On a personal note: 

This record has been more than a running adventure. It has been an incredible journey that not only allowed us to cross from one end of a country to another, but it has opened our eyes to the beauty of Israel. It’s a diverse landscape all compressed into a very small area. The deserts of the south were truly mind-blowing, the best deserts I have witnessed. The green and stoney trails of the north provided a stunning contrast to the red of the south. And throughout this journey, the people of Israel have welcomed us, supported us and helped Mike in a way that none of us could have predicted. But the help has not only come from trekkers or runners, the story of Mike’s journey has spread throughout Israel and made multiple news channels and in doing so has created awareness. People have come out to offer best wishes and even offer a place to sleep or provide food.

This journey has stirred an awareness and challenged people to ask themselves, ‘What can I do to challenge myself?’

Of course, Mike’s journey is extreme. Only a few people in the world can take on a challenge like this. But the INT and a trail near your own home, is there to be explored. It doesn’t matter how far, Mike has always said, that if he can inspire more people to get active, push a boundary, to test themselves, then he has achieved something worthwhile. 

Needless to say, Mike has been an inspiration. I have known and interviewed him for many years, but on this adventure, I have come to know him like never before. His focus, powers of recovery, his ability to endure pain but most importantly, is mental strength is off the scale. This ‘package’ often results in arrogance and ego. Mike is neither! His warm and open heart has been a pleasure to be around and ask anyone who met him in Israel, they only have good words to say.

Finally, a challenge like this takes a great crew and Zoli Bihari pulled out all the stops to make this 10-days a magical, awe-inspiring adventure of sleep deprivation. Mike could not have achieved this FKT without the dedication of a super slick crew. There are many people to thank and I will say here, a BIG thanks to all who turned up and helped. In particular, Erez, Uri and Regina. 

I will write more of the full 10-day journey when I have time to digest the emotions. It has been a truly exhilarating moment in my life and to witness Mike achieve this goal and set an FKT makes me super proud.

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Sleeping on the floor of a run store has never felt so good. The shower before sleeping on the run floor would normally have been even better… But when you are working 18-20 hours a day, sleeping gets the nod and Mike agreed.

Day 9 had been tough, but Mike finished with pace. The short drive from his finish point to our impromptu sleep station was worth the short drive in comparison to crawling in to tents for a potentially chilly night. 

We discussed the day over a late dinner, and it was decided that there was no real point to give Mike an early start when a good sleep would potentially set him upon for what was going to be a long day, night and another long day to get the FKT done.

Our calculations confirmed that Mike had somewhere between 170 – 190km to cover, to achieve that in 24-hours after the previous 9-days was an impossible ask, so, we all were well aware that the new FKT would be 10-days, ‘x’ hours and ‘x’ minutes. Whatever the finishing time is, this record will stand for some time. The Israel National Trail is a brute and what Mike has achieved and will achieve is off the scale.

So, we awoke at 0645, had breakfast and the departed for the start.

Mike wasn’t feeling it. He looked and felt jaded and yes, emotional. I have experienced this journey with him with the rest of the team. Have seen the high and low points and therefore know better than anyone the undertaking. But I still cannot fully comprehend the depths that Mike has gone to, to achieve this FKT. For sure, it is going to take Mike some considerable processing time in the days and weeks that follow.

To clarify, he has been to a place that he has never been before.

The route today was another green tunnel day with much climbing, some paved roads and early on, passing through congested streets. The Israel National Trail is so diverse. Nazareth and Galilee key names on the days agenda.

At 0814 day-10 got underway. Mike had no pacers and he was glad of the time to reflect and be alone. I joined him multiple times over the first 4-hours running with him, taking photos and encouraging him.

He laughed and complained about his pathetic 4-mile per hour pace. “Dude, this sport is so funny. One minute you feel like you are being stabbed in the heart 50 times and then moments later, you can feel great. I love the depths this sport can take you!”

Route marking was a real issue, and unfortunately this did not help Mike’s mood. The early parts of the day were a struggle and it was so hard to see Mike fight the demons. But this is the sport and Mike knows it, “Quitting is not an option!” Mike said.

Climbing to Mt Tabor, finally things seemed to become a little better and at the summit at 1344 three pacers joined the journey. Finally, Mike would have some constant company.

1438 and Gazit Junction provided a major refuel point and the four pushed on. There were one or two navigation errors, but the mood started to lift, and Mike was beginning to feel better.

At Yardenit (1930) I treated Mike to 4 large fries from McDonalds and Erez prepared race and avocado burritos. Now an ‘elite’ pace team was ready for the darkness and Mike said, “Now the temperatures are cooler, I feel good!”

They left and the pace lifted. Tiberias came at 2108 and make was pacing the pacers. They all commented on how fast he was moving!

At 2223, the team arrived at Arbel, the entrance to the National Park.

National Park rules say that you are not allowed to be in them during darkness, so, to abide by the rules, an impromptu camp was arranged, and Mike will depart at first light with pacers.

Friday is a new day, with 100km to go, who knows what the new FKT will be? One thing is for sure, it will be 10-days, ‘x’ hours and ‘x’ minutes – that for me is remarkable.

More to come… GO MIKE!

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Finishing before 10pm, having a warm shower, a good dinner and a sleep in a real bed can work wonders… It did! After a difficult day-8, Mike needed everything to click into place over the night to make day-9 manageable.

At breakfast, he confirmed it was the best night’s sleep for a long time and definitely the best night during the FKT.

It was a short drive to Aqueduct Beach where the previous day’s endeavors had finished (at 12km’s per hour!) Mike got rolling at 0722 with a pacer and along the way he picked up and lost pacers for the duration of his run.

Let’s be clear here, the Israeli run community are rallying around this FKT in a way that has never been seen before in this country. There is a buzz, an excitement going around. In one way or another, people want to be involved in history being made. I get it! In years to come, when stories are told about the crazy American guy who ran from the south to the north in ‘x’ days, they will be able to say, ‘I was there!’

Day 9 for me will be remembered as the ‘Green Tunnel’ day. Miles and miles of green provided a backdrop to the challenges the Mike and the pacers faced. Dense and overgrown sections of forest that had hidden markers and narrow path less than a body width. In the first two thirds, it was climbs, descents, mud and technical sections. It was no easy day!

As the day passed and the miles clicked by. It was clear to see that Mike was finding the heat and the endless terrain difficulty a challenge. I think it was frustration more than anything. Miles were meant to pass quickly today, be finished as early as possible and then rest and recover for the huge final push to get the FKT done. But the terrain was not playing ball. It was slowing Mike to a pace that could only lengthen the day and reduce recovery time. Zichron at 0923, then Offer 1150, Meaeot Creek at 1355 and then at 1600.

This last technical climb and descent coming at 1600 would finally see a gradual end to the days tough terrain and change to more runnable trail.

Mike was consuming many calories all day, he is really feeling the impact now of all the time and distance. He basically cannot eat enough to compensate for the losses. Sandwiches, Pringles, bars, the occasional gel, bread, avocado, egg, omelets – to be honest, providing it was vegan, he would pretty much eat it.

All the time, despite his fatigue, despite his aches, pains and despite his frustrations, Mike never lost his cool. He was composed, constantly chatting with his pacers and always giving thanks.

When he arrived at Isfiya at 1805, there was a change in him. The runnable terrain had woken the competitive edge inside him and the ability to run excited him. He was now clicking of the km’s. Yagur came at 1900 and with approximately 15km to go, a 10pm finish was on the cards. 

For the final sections of the days trail, he had an entourage of runners, all keen to embrace an opportunity to say, ‘I was there!’ They left the final checkpoint at 2125, the final km’s of the day would soon pass and before long, Mike would be showering, eating and preparing to sleep.

As day-9 concludes. All eyes turn to day-10. We urge you all, come and find a moment, be it on Thursday or Friday, to run with, cheer, clap, smile or basically send a message to Mike to encourage him to his goal.

I have seen the depths Mike has gone to, to make history.  

I have seen the pain, witnessed the smiles and the agony. I have captured the moments from morning to night in images and in the future, when someone says,

‘Do you remember that crazy American who ran from the south to the north of Israel in ‘x’ days?”

I will be able to reply, “I was there!”

#iwasthere

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It may have been 1100pm, but Pizza is what Mike craved and Pizza was our mission. Thank goodness for Google maps and the opportunity to find out what options are available close by. Of course, finding a vegan Pizza does makes things a little harder but we did it.

Mike was in his tent when we arrived at our stop camp, cozy tents all in a line and Erez at his 4×4 with a spread of food laid out. Pasta, salad, pancakes and more options. This is life on the road and working on an FKT.

A shower would have been nice, the last one was 3-days ago. But hey, we all smell as bad as each other. Day-7 had been a good day and we all went to sleep as soon as possible. I have to be honest, I was the first to climb in my sleeping bag, I was wasted!

Morning and our 5:45 alarm soon came. Breakfast was laid out for us, once again Erez excelling at camp life and life on the road. Without a doubt, Mike is feeling his runs now. It takes him a little longer to prepare in the morning. It’s understandable, very few people are able to do just 1-day of this FKT let alone string 10 of them together.

At 0725 the day started with several pacers, one in particular, Refael, had aced Mike in the desert and he was back for more.

The transition from the desert today achieved a new level, the arrival of Tel Aviv mixed city and trail together. This is what is so wonderful about the Israel National Trail, it is the variety that a runner or trekker can experience while travelling the length of the country.

 Channel 5 News also joined us on the route today and did an impromptu interview midway through the run.

Green vegetation moved over for paths and roads. Trees were replaced by buildings and then the beach and the sea arrived. Today was truly a pot pourri of visual experiences that contrasted against the first 5-days of this FKT wonderfully.

Mike was joined by runners all day, at times, 20-people were with him. It was wonderful to see Mike chat, laugh and share the journey with so many. The miles clicked along despite muddy conditions early in the day. The sun came and at times it felt much hotter than the 25 degrees displayed on our watches. Mike is attentive to the heat and when possible, we supply ice to cool him.

 He arrived at Tell Afek at 08:25, Tel Aviv beach 12:18, Hertzella Siri Beach 13:22 and then the wheels came off… At Poleg Beach (16:47) disaster almost struck. Mike was freezing cold as the wind whipped in off the sea. Wrapped in blankets, he could not get warm. Adding layers including two jackets and woolly hat also didn’t seem to help. He finally decided to move and left at a slow pace looking more like a polar explorer that a runner departing to set an FKT record.

 Moving slowly with Refael by his side, he finally raised his core temperature and like Lazarus, he rose once again to start back jogging and then running.

The duo arrived at Bet Yani 19:20, picked up more pacers and then pushed on to Give Olga arriving 20:50.

The final push of 12km to Aqueduct Beach in Caesura would round out 105km for the day – he finished before 10pm. 

Job done!

Day-9 tomorrow and the plan will be to cover, once again, approximately 100km. It’s all about management now and getting Mike ready for the final day-10 push when it looks like he will travel approximately 100-miles.

I have witnessed many great runs and many great runners in my time as photo/ journalist. Mike on this FKT has continually blown my mind.

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