My recent podcast interview with Cyril Gauthier (available HERE) discussing the new development and progression for Marathon des Sables has now been transcribed and translated in to French. Superb job by Emmanuel Lamarle.
It is available on the marathondessables.com website by following the link HERE.
Make sure you you click on the flag (top right) as the copy will be inFrench or English.
The iconic Marathon des Sables is entering a new phase, the past 37 editions have been under the aegis of Patrick Bauer, who, back in 1984, filled up a pack with food and water and trekked off alone into the Algerian Sahara to cover 350km’s on foot in a self-sufficient manner. Little did he know at the time, but this journey was the start of something incredible, the Marathon des Sables, or MDS as it is affectionately known.
Now under new ownership, the 38th edition taking place in April 2024 will see some significant changes while sticking to the main format and principles of the past 37-editions.
It is therefore timely, to update my Ultimate Guide to Marathon des Sables and acknowledge these key changes.
A recent podcast with one of the new co-owners, Cyril Gauthier, can be heard HERE.
Cyril ran the Marathon des Sables in 2009, created the brand WAA and is instrumental in the growth of the HMDS (Half Marathon des Sables) format. Moving forward, the HMDS format will no longer have the ‘half’ title, for example, HMDS Morocco will become MDS Morocco, HMDS Jordan will be MDS Jordan and the key, full distance race of the past 37-years will be called ‘LEGENDARY‘ – The Legendary Marathon des Sables.
Marathon des Sables offers more than just running, it offers a challenge, it offers something quite unique – the Sahara and the MDS strips the runner back to basics and deprives them of all luxuries so that they are stripped raw. Runners find themselves in the desert.
However, this challenge can often daunt a new participant with the challenge that is ahead and therefore, my Ultimate Guide to the Marathon des Sables is provided to settle nerves, provide initial information and provide a level of knowledge that you can use as a base from which to build your own plan and decide on what equipment to purchase and use.
Iconic balloons, landscape and early morning light.
You’ll have seen the images, two in particular appear everywhere when you do a search on the internet, one will be the unique fairy towers and the other, hot air balloons gliding over the aforementioned landscape with the glow of early morning light.
Running and racing is a wonderful double edged sword, we look for new destinations to practice our sport and then when in these locations, we get to explore them in the best way possible, by foot!
Hoodoo – an epic backdrop
Salomon Cappadocia Ultra Trail, now in it’s 10th edition provides the opportunity to mix the best of both worlds.
The races start and conclude in Ürgüp (closest airport Kayseri) in Nevşehir province. It’s the perfect hub for exploration. Located at 1044m, access to key tourist attractions and hot air balloon flights, are just a phone call away, particularly if you communicate with Argeus Travel, who also happen to be the team behind Cappadocia Ultra Trail.
Other than say Montserrat, Colorado and north America, the landscape of Cappadocia is unique. The ‘Hoodoo’ (fairy chimney) actually translates to tent rock or earth pyramid is in abundance and a key feature of the landscape here. Created by earth erosion, they typically consist of soft rock topped by harder rock. These Hoodoos became home to Troglodytes (cave dweller) who carved into the formations to create a place to live. Varying in size, Hoodoo can be up to 10 storeys high and they are unique with a conical shape. Today, there are no permanent settlements but Persians, Ottomans, Romans, Byzantines and others, over time, have used these Hoodoo as shelter. Notably, Christians fleeing persecution made their homes in Cappadocia and they built churches. This was a key phase in the development of the Hoodoo, they ‘added’ to the natural structure and also built a network of underground cities and caves.
And so, Salomon Cappadocia Ultra Trail offers a unique opportunity to run through history.
With three key races, CUT at 119k,, CMT at 63km and CST at 38km, there is a race distance for all. While CUT provides the full and immersive 360 experience, the CMT arguably provides the most spectacular and concise journey. The CUT and CMT cover the same trails starting in Ürgüp and passing on a circular route through key locations such as Ortahisar, Ibrahimpasa, Göreme and the Rose and Red valley, where surreal rock formations, pinkish-red colours, and ancient cave churches make this a highlight. Ürgüp follows and the CMT concludes, for the CUT they continue on for a tough and arduous loop passing through Mustafapasa, Damsa Dam, Cemil, Taskinpasa, Karlik, Egrim Tepesi and finally Ürgüp for the finish.
The CST passes through Ibrahimpasa, Göreme and concludes in Ürgüp and while the route has its moments, it’s less spectacular than the CMT.
With over 2400 runners from over 70 nations, Cappadocia Ultra Trail has become Turkey’s key trail running event. It sets the bar for how an event should be. Talking with the team at Argeus, they have a simple philosophy, they wanted to create an event for Turkish people that was of the highest standard and importantly, affordable. The growth of the event and the landscape on offer has made this one of the key events in the world to travel to and it’s easy to see why. Ürgüp in itself has grown through the tourism generated and as such, accommodation is in abundance and much of it with a boutique style, I for example stayed inside a cave at Deer Suites.
Racing was fast and furious and the presence of the Adidas Terrex Team certainly provided a new impetus to the racing with Dmitry Mityaev and Ekaterina Mityaeva winning the CUT, Ekaterina also 3rd overall. Kim Schreiber winning the CMT and placing 3rd overall! Martin Dematteis and Dion Gorla both placing 2nd in the CST. Full results HERE.
Dmitry Mityaev
CUT – Dmitry Mityaev completed the 360 degree journey of Cappadocia in a course record time of 10:59:32 with Farkhad Isakov and Mohammadreza Jelodar placing 2nd and 3rd, 12:14:25 and 13:12:15 respectively. Ekaterina Mityaeva also set a course record 13:00:23 and placed 3rd overall, a stunning run. Ksenila Avdeeva was 2nd in 14:23:45 and Sergio Baysal 3rd in 15:24:41.
Ekaterina Mityaeva
CMT – Kim Schreiber was the star completing the 63km in 05:38:39 and placing 3rd overall. Behind, the Terrex athlete was followed by Varvara Shikanova and Aysel Yalac Dolay. 06:02:58 and 06:24:50 respectively. Mestan Turban set a blistering pace for the men and set a convincing victory in 05:03:49 followed by Irem Can Ayaz in 05:17:40 and Ryan Farrugia in 05:42:15.
Mestan Turban passing through Ibrahimpasa
CST – Alejandro Forcades and Martin Dematteis had a hard fought battle for victory, Alejandro finally crossing first in 02:39:40 to Martin’s 02:41:34. Yury Shtankov rounded the podium in 02:48:29. The women’s race also had a tight battle for victory with Simone Brick edging out Dioni Gorla, 03:25:53 to 03:26:35. Tugce Karakaya placed 3rd in 03:31:24.
Hidden caves
In addition to the stand-alone races, the CUT, CMT and CST were also done in relay format. Results CUT, CMT and CST.
Ürgüp was a stunning location and hub for the 2023 Cappadocia Ultra Trail, in conjunction with excellent organisation from Argeus, many are now already looking ahead to 2024. See you there I hope!
As trail and mountain running grows worldwide, races with a 1000 or even 1000’s of runner’s are becoming normal. It’s great to see this boom and long may it continue. However, raw and local events have a place, they are a hark back to the ‘why’ we run, travel, adventure, culture and an immersive experience in a new place with new people.
Now in its third edition, the race has grown from humble beginning to 100’s of participants over four races, VK, 17km, 24km and 50km.
Oliena
Deep inside Sardinia, the wild territory of Supramonte is explored, on foot. The beauty of this region comes in its primitive, harsh and beautiful terrain which makes up the challenge to be endured from VK to 50km. This rough terrain in softened by the people and their warmth. Rough and smooth, Oliena is a must visit destination.
Looking up from the centre of town, the church towered by an epic backdrop of mountains that is reminiscent of the Dolomites, provides a hub for the weekend of events. Saturday afternoon, the VK and 17km get underway at 1500 both taking the same trail to Prado where they then split, the 17km heading right for a wonderful trail journey back to town, the VK turning left for a steep conclusion at Punta Carabidda. Sunday, an 0700 start for the 50km and at 0900 the 24km gets underway, the two races sharing some of the same trails to and from Prado but in opposite directions.
Some would say, they are brutally beautiful.
Battle for VK first place
The VK covers 6.5km’s and 980m+ of tree covered trails until finally opening up to mountainous terrain as Prado looms. Now the terrain is tough, challenging and more technical. VK’s burn the legs and lungs and here in Oliena, Alex Baldaccini and Frederico Nicolini pushed each other to the line, crossing together in 41:06. Lorenzo Rostagno placed third. Elena Nicolini crowned the podium for the women in 54:23, also good enough for fifth overall. Camilla Calosso and Giudy Turini completed the podium.
Giudy Turini
Starting at the same time as the VK, the 17km Corassi Trail covers 1250m of vertical gain with the opening km’s matching those of the VK to Prado. From here the route heads right towards Monte Corassi (1463m) and a magical loop that eventually concludes back in Oliena. Salvatore Ragonese dominated with a 01:59:01 performance ahead of Nicolas Orrù and Davide Barattini. Lena Zellman from Germany took the top honours for the women in 02:28:42 with Valentina Nazarov second and Francesca Visconti third.
A night of rest for the runner’s, for the Oliena staff, a busy night preparing for the Sunday action.
The Supramonte backdrop
The Ultra Sky Supramonte covers 50km’s with 3700m of vertical ascent, it’s a tough race and one that would test all the participants. Going in a clockwise direction, the route concludes with a climb to Monte Corrasi but from the opposite direction of the 17km and 24km races. It came as no surprise that top skyrunner, William Boffelli dominated the race.
Franco Collé
A potential challenge from Tor des Geants record holder, Franco Colle disappeared when Franco withdrew from the race – It was just soon after Tor! Williams time of 06:03:07 an impressive conclusion to a masterclass performance. It was almost 40-minutes later when second placed Tizano Scatolin arrived. Martin Blathusiak placed third. Radka Litajova placed in the top-10 overall and won the women’s race in 08:04:21 ahead of Katerina Sulikova and Marta Poretti.
50km has steep and challenging terrain
Starting 2-hours after the 50km, the 24km Humidor SkyTrail got underway, 1700m of positive gain to be conquered.
Lorenzo Beltrami
Lorenzo Beltrami fought of a challenge from skyrunning legend, Tadei Pivk, to take victory in 02:21:02 just over 4-minutes ahead of Tadei.
Tadei Pivk
Paolo Bonanomi placed third. Pina Deiana repeated success from 2022 with another victory, stopping the clock in 03:07:17. Ivana Bruckova and Ludovia Rossi completed the podium.
Epic terrain and views
As the runner’s completed their journeys in the centre of Oliena, a party welcomed them with celebratory crowds, local atmosphere and a live band. Oliena SkyTrail may be small, but it’s big on atmosphere and emotion. For many, two days is just not enough… These mountains and trails need exploring, maybe at a more relaxed pac with a hike and picnic. There are no shortage of adventures too, a ‘must-do’ is Su Cologne for lunch, a visit to the area and canoe trip on Lago del Cedrino.
Trust me, I am going back in 2024, but this time for a week. I need to explore more.
Episode 238 of Talk Ultra – After 37-years, the iconic Marathon des Sables will move ahead with new owners, the legacy of Patrick Bauer is there for all of us to see. With new owners comes change and in this episode of Talk Ultra, we discuss these changes with co-owner and CEO Cyril Gauthier.
This in-depth podcast discusses the history and background of Cyril Gauthier and then organically follows through to discuss the brand WAA, the growth of HMDS and the future and changes for Marathon des Sables.
UPDATE – This was not addressed in my podcast, at the time, I did not have the facts. However, post podcast I have had questions raised by some who had concern about medical support and the Doctor team, so I reached out for an answer, and I quote:
“We will try to do better than with Doc Trotter. I have been contracted with DoK Ever since the beginning of HMDS. They were also the ones who managed MDS Peru. They are among the leaders in Europe and I believe we can increase the quality. We have the same number of doctors, podiatrists and nurses: 60. I am going to modify the management of vehicles by keeping the current system but adding a rapid intervention force with SSVs. Always with the helicopter as back up.” – Cyril Gauthier
It’s suggested you read this article written Jube 2023 in advance of this recording.
Are you up for an adventure in an incredible part of the world?
If the answer is yes, Home Of The Giants is for you!
JULY 21ST TO JULY 28TH 2024
A multi-day adventure through the magical and amazing playground that is Jotunheimen, Norway. Unlike a race, this journey is a finely balanced exclusive trip for just 12 participants. A challenge at a more relaxed pace, taking in an amazing route whilst moving light in a semi self-sufficient mode.
The iconic ‘The Church’ we go to the summit on day 2
Spread over 5-days, our journey starts from Bygdin Fjellhotel with an overnight stay, the following morning we depart via the iconic M/B Bitihorn boat covering the length of Bitihorn lake to our start point at Eidsbugarden. A magical journey, on foot, covering 100kmand 4774m+
Snow fields, water crossings and morraine
You will encounter snow, water crossings, airy and exposed sections, plenty of climbing and descending and full days on the trail. Each day will conclude at a DNT cabin where you will have a bed, shower facilities, 3-course dinner and breakfast included.
Rock and snow transitions to lush green and single-track
WANT TO JOIN US?
Only 12 places are available for what will be a journey of a lifetime.
Episode 235 of Talk Ultra and we speak with Katie (Catherine) Young who placed 6th lady and 1st Brit at the 2023 Marathon des Sables in 34h 21m 18s.
The 2023 Marathon des Sables will go down in the 37-year history of the race as a tough one. With second longest stage in the race history (90km), a tough course and excessive heat, 30% did not make it to the finish.
Katie Young from the UK, running her first stage race had an incredible run placing 6th woman and 1st Brit.
Are you planning on running Marathon des Sables or a similar race in 2024 or beyond? Why not join us in January for our LANZAROTE TRAINING CAMP which runs from the 11th to 18th. More information HERE.
Marathon des Sables 2024 #MDS – The New Features Discussed
2024 Marathon des Sables entries are due to open on June 30th. Moving forward, some changes will be made to the race. Read a summary of points HERE.
NEED A NEW PACK?
Are you looking for a new pack that is suitable for fastpacking and stage racing? We are currently testing the Camelbak Octane 25 and it is proving a real favourite. It’s full of features, has great storage and is extremely comfortable. Check out our first impressions HERE.
Located 800 miles from Oslo and 95 miles north of the Arctic Circle. Lofoten is an archipelago in Nordland county, known as the land of the midnight sun, from the end of May to the middle of July sunset merges into sunrise, with no darkness in between. Majestic mountains, lush valleys, chalk-white beaches, seagull cries, the smell of sea and houses where you would not believe that anyone could live. It’s Lofoten in a nutshell.
Highlights are countless, especially for an enthusiastic tourist, however, as a runner, you are in an amazing position to explore. Off the beaten track you get to see the ‘real’ Lofoten that only the hardy get to see. Higravtind, 1146m is the highest peak, what Lofoten lacks in height, it more than compensates for with a plethora of mixed terrain and endless peaks connected via sea, beach, road, and trail.
The Arctic Triple isa series of races (skimo, ultra-trail and triathlon) that take place at 3 key points of the year, March week 11, June week 22, and August week 33. Created to showcase this stunning archipelago; the Ultra-Trail (and shorter races) takes place in June bringing endless days and nights of light.
Providing a perfect opportunity to sightsee while running, it comes as no surprise that the 160km, 80km, 48km, 24km and 12km races are extremely popular, 750 toed the line in 2023. In addition, there is a 160km relay competition and a 80km relay competition.
Passing through amazing scenery of mountain ridges, white beaches, green hills, and grey cliffs, the race routes are stunning and for almost the entire time, the ocean is in view. All the races conclude in Svolvær.
Reine, the classic picture postcard view of Lofoten, is a small fishing village located on the island of Moskenesøya, surrounded by towering mountains, this is where The Arctic Triple experience starts for 160km runners leaving by boat for Kirkefjord, the official start line.
Highlights come thick and fast, the peak of Kråkhammar towering the opening km’s to cp1 at Selford. The beach of Kvalvika is by far the loneliest beach in Lofoten on the way to cp2 at Fredvang. In previous editions, Unstad, Uttakleiv and Haukland beach have been part of the race route, but for 2023, changes were made to accommodate local farmers and livestock. A coastal section from Nesland to Nusjford providing rolling and at time technical trail.
Nusford, like Reine, is a picture postcard fishing village on the southern shore of the island of Flakstadøya. What follows is arguably one of the more challenging sections of the whole race route and the cp at Napp (56km) is a key aid station. The coastal trail loop of Offersøy leads eventually to Leknes, 73km covered and it is here that the 80km race starts.
Now, as the 160km route counts down to the finish in Svolvær, the respective 48km, 24km, and 12km races start. The route from Brustranda climbing up from the coastline into Grønbakkan being a highlight.
Torvdalshalsen and the 48km start leads to Vetten and some challenging terrain before climbing a steep wall of grass and a race highlight of Dalstuva ridge. Road miles follow and now, with approximately 20km’s to go, the route enters the whammy of Jordtinden, Nonstinden, Spisstinden and finally Tjeldbergtinden before finally arriving in Svolvær, exhausted!
Lofoten, on foot, is relentlessly beautiful and challenging and for 2023, even more so, with persistent rain, strong winds at time varying amounts of snow; the final section over Nonstind, Spisstind and Tjeldbergtinden providing an even greater challenge with recent snowfall, varying levels of visibility and cold temperatures.
“You run on some absolutely fantastic trail, and you are constantly surrounded by sea and lush mountains. It is a raw experience, steep mountain sides, narrow edges and 100% concentration is required. There are airy parts that offer a challenge and incredible views. Single-track, road, marshland, dense forest, mud and views to make my eyes sore – what a place Lofoten is!” – Abelone Lyng
Ultimately, Lofoten is a magical paradise that is waiting to be explored. There is so much to do and see that one trip will not be enough and it will only whet the appetite for future visits and plans.
However, if you need an introduction to this magical part of the world, signing up for one of The Arctic Triple races would be a great introduction. Of course, the 160km race provides the ultimate point-to-point immersive experience from Reine to Svolvær, for many though, this is too far and too challenging, but watch this space, new for 2024 (in addition to the 160km single-stage) the 160km race will be broken down in to four stages and offer Norway’s first multi-stage race (more info HERE), it will provide a full and immersive experience.
160km, 80km, 48km, 24km, 12km or the new stage race, running The Arctic Triple lets you experience the nature, views and atmosphere of Lofoten – there is no better way to experience any place!
The marathon stage had been highly anticipated as it was expected, that Rachid El Morabity would come from behind and gain time on his brother, Mohamed and clinch his 10th victory. However, this was not to be!
Rachid, along with Aziz El Akad failed an equipment check before the long stage (stage 4) of the Marathon des Sables. This check showed items that were not present at the initial kit check on admin day. The items, coincidentally, were provided each day in lunch packets for MDS staff. In simple terms, Rachid and Aziz were obtaining ‘outside assistance’ to gain an advantage and this, of course, is outside the rules of the race and the sense of fair play. On the rest day, a penalty of 3-hours was given to Rachid and Aziz and also, the Moroccan team was penalised. Rachid and Aziz decided to leave the race and not participate in the last stage.
Rachid has since posted on his Instagram account, and I quote:
“…it is with heavy heart I have decided to quit Marathon des Sables because I was punished unfairly for a mistake I dod not commit. When you are wrongly accused, it’s better to stand with your head high than to remain to suffer injustice…”
Sadly, this is a sad chapter in the history of the Marathon des Sables and the legacy of Rachid. However, it’s greatly important that self-sufficiency in the true nature of the MDS is held and when applicable, penalties are given, irrespective of if you have won 9 editions or not.
The 2023 edition will go down in the history of the race as one of the toughest! A beautiful but tough route, was made considerably tougher with intense heat that not only lasted the week, but increased in temperature daily. Also, early days were impacted with multiple sand storms. At the time of writing, the DNF rate is approximately 30% with just 771 runner’s starting the marathon stage.
It was a day full of emotion, finally, Mohamed El Morabity was finally released from the pressures of working for an elder brother and ran a smart race. He consolidated his lead by marking his closest rival Aziz Yachou and then in the final km’s he opened a gap crossing the line in 3:18. A huge victory for the Moroccan.
Aziz placed 2nd on the stage and 2nd overall on GC with Visiili Korytkin rounding out the stage podium. Mathieu Blanchard placed 3rd overall on GC, a great step up from his 2021 5th place.
For the women, Maryline Nakache won the stage and the overall GC. Tomomi Bitoh who won the marathon stage the last time she raced MDS today placed 2nd and 3rd on GC. Aziza El Amrany placed 3rd on stage and 2nd oveall.
Of course, today, the finish is full of tears, joy and emotion. The 37th edition has been a tough one and it’s clear to see the elation as the line is crossed and finally, it’s possible to relax and let go. There have been many highs and lows for all. As always, there are countless stories that transcend running and in time, those stories will be told. But just look at the images below to get a glimpse of the inspiration, the journey, the transformative process that MDS brings.
The long day at Marathon des Sables. It is always feared and rightly so. Coming on day 4, bodies are already tired and depleted. This year, the challenge is 90km, the second longest long day in the races 37th year history.
With 36 hours allowed to complete the challenge, it was going to be a tough challenge for all. The race start was brought forward by 1-hour once again, 0700 instead of 0800. The top 50 staring at 1000.
Self management is key. With aid stations approximately 10km’s apart, the race can be broken down, Cp by Cp and for most, the welcome of sunset and cooler temperatures makes travelling by foot easier.
The front of the race was highly anticipated with Rachid, Mohamed and Aziz close together on the GC. But really, all eyes were on Rachid looking for a 10th victory.
The day started with Rachid pushing the pace ahead of the other contenders but no real gaps opened up, for much of the day, the trio were close together and it stayed this way all the way to the end with Mohamed finishing 1st (8:14:39), Aziz 2nd (8:14:45) and Rachid 3rd (8:14:58), the GC staying with Mohamed as leader. It’s all to fight for come the marathon stage. Mathieu Blanchard once again ran consistency securing 4th place on GC.
Update: 1400hrs 27/04
Rachid El Morabity and Aziz El Akad both failed a mandatory kit check ahead of the stage 4 start. The reason, ‘outside assistance.’ This has resulted in a 3-hour time penalty given against Rachid and Aziz and the Morocan team will be penalised.
Ragna Debats had dominated the first three stages and barring disaster, was almost guaranteed victory. But, there are no guarantees in the Sahara. The terrain brutal, the heat intense and the challenge extreme.
Ragna struggled early on, looking uncomfortable and lacking power. She started to fade and eventually she started to fall back with Maryline Nakache and Aziza El Amrany pulling away. The gaps opened and Maryline became the provisional leader on the trail.
Aziza forged ahead to take a well earned stage victory in 11:44:39. Maryline is now the women’s leader of the 37th Marathon des Sables finishing stage 4 in 11:50:04. Tomomi Bitoh, Corina Sommer and Catherine (Katy) Young all moved up in the rankings. The marathon stage will be interesting!
For many, today, Thursday is a rest day, recovering from the long day. But remember, runner’s have till 1700 hours to complete the stage, another day of intense heat to fight against.
The MDS is called ‘The Toughest Race in the World,’ in 2023 it is proving to be true. The combination of distance, heat, challenging terrain, self-sufficiency and rationed water make this an ultimate challenge.
IAN CORLESS 