Transvulcania La Palma – A Guide

LA PALMA and the TRANSVULCANIA LA PALMA

Transvulcania Map

 

Mountains, volcanoes, beaches, forests, a tropical rainforest, tiny villages and breathtaking views. La Palma is the jewel in the ‘Canaries’ crown. Many consider it to be the most beautiful idyllic Canary Island, un-spoilt by tourism and ideal for rest, peace and quiet. It is a treasure for the walker, hiker or runner. Considering the islands size (50km x 25km) it has many surprisingly different areas of natural beauty. It has a perfect all year round climate, not too hot in the summer and pleasantly warm in the winter.

La Palma

La Palma lies 200km from the coast of Morocco and is approximately 3500km from the UK. Just north of the ‘Tropic of Cancer’. The island attracts many a stargazer and budding astronomer for the incredible display by the stars at night.

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Not dependent on tourism the island attracts a very different client to those you may find on Gran Canaria or Tenerife. You won’t find ‘English Pub’ or ‘English Food served here thank goodness. It is un-spoilt, traditional and a haven for those seeking a true Spanish feel. Natural beauty, dramatic vistas and 100’s of km’s of trails are available to explore via the marked ‘GR’ or ‘LP’ routes. Of course the famous GR route is the 131 that makes up the route for the Transvulcania La Palma… more on that later!

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How big is the island? Well, in a nutshell, not very big… at just 50km long and 25km wide. The population is only 86, 528 (dated 2008).

La Palma is dominated by the Caldera, the massive erosion crater often (incorrectly) thought of as a volcano, it has steep sloping sides both inside and out.

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The south-west part of the Caldera has collapsed and been eroded away leaving a ravine that runs deep right down to the sea at Tazacorte and the start point for the Transvulcania La Palma race.

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The southeast and north of the island has a coastline that drops steeply down to the sea making access to the coast very difficult. Many areas are only reachable by sea.

The central ridge (cumbre) makes up the central and southern parts that extend from the Caldera in the north to the southern point of the island and divides the island into two.

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Often called ‘La Isla Bonita’ it is a green island with many trees, including tree heather, the tall Canary Pine and cultivated citrus, avocado, chestnut, almond and banana trees at lower altitudes. Characterized by steep cliffs, volcanic rock, bays, black sand and cactus. Of course one thing you will see everywhere are many, many banana plantations.

A volcanic island, the last eruption was in 1971 at the Teneguía volcano.

The GR 131

 GR131

The GR 131 was created from the logical joining of two large mountain routes in La Palma: The Volcano Route and the route of The Crests of the Taburiente Crater.

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To make a logical route, the GR131 was extended at both ends to the sea. It is possible to start at sea level from the Fuencaliente lighthouse climb upward and upward to the Caldera Taburiente Crest. Run around the crest to Roque de Los Muchachos and then drop down and then descend to Tazacorte Port. In its origins, this path connected the localities furthest away from each other, as it climbed a radial path to the current GR131 and followed it to the radial downwards path to the destination. It has also been the main path for the herding of goats from the summit to the coast.

Route Description

In providing a route description of the GR131 I am looking at it from the eyes of a runner in relation to the Transvulcania La Palma. Please keep this mind if you are reading this from the perspective of a walker or hiker.

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Starting at the Fuencaliente Lighthouse at sea level the first section includes two key volcanoes, San Antonio and Teneguía. As mentioned previously, Teneguía last erupted in 1971. The first miles are tough going and most certainly on race day with some 1500+ runners a struggle. The path is often narrow with loose black sand or rocks. Patience will be required.

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From Los Canarios you enter the dense pine forests which offer a stark contrast to the opening miles. Underfoot terrain now mixes black lava sand, pine needles and rocks. Running is much easier than the opening miles and you will find an opportunity to stretch your legs.

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Climbing up the trees eventually start to subside and you emerge in the ‘Route of the Volcanoes’. This path crosses the southern ridge of the island, where most of the volcanoes are lined up (less than 200,000 years old). Among others, the following volcanoes can be seen from the path: Birigoyo Peak, Nambroque Peak, San Juan or Hoyo Negro Volcano (eruption in 1949), Duraznero Volcano, Las Deseadas, El Charco Mountain (active in 1712), Martín Volcano (eruption in 1646), Pelada Mountain, El Fuego Mountain and the Crater of Los Arreboles. It is an incredible route, sometimes very runnable, at other times hard work due to the increasing steepness of the path and loose deep lava sand.

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The final sections of the volcano route offer good fast running to El Pilar. In the Transvulcania La Palma this place offers an important marker. An important feed station and also the finish point for the shorter race provided by the race organizers.

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Leaving El Pilar, the race route (GR 131) heads north for the crest of La Cumbre Nueva using a forest trail that goes beyond the port of El Reventón (1350 m). Initially you will find this section providing some of the easiest running you will have had so far… the gradients are easier and underfoot one has less obstacles.

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Of course it soon comes to an end, the path climbs the successive and increasingly high peaks, running along the very edge of the Taburiente Crater.

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The Taburiente Crater rim is an incredible natural wonder offering technical running terrain, constant changes in elevation and some of the most incredible views you will ever see. Depending on the weather systems you will either have clear blue skies and the ability to look out into the distance for miles or a thick blanket like layer of cloud that will be below you literally making you feel they you are Skyrunning. Incredible. One thing that La Palma is famous for is the micro climate. You will almost certainly while running the race have several different types of weather, particularly if the cloud layer appears. You can be hot with the sun beating down on you and then a little chilly as you run through the cloud. It is what makes it so interesting.

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From the Rock of Los Muchachos (2436 m) the highest point of the course, the route drops down to the sea at the Port of Tazacorte. Beware! You may be thinking to yourself as you climb up and up for hours and hours that you have a wonderful long descent to the finish. You do but it is steep, technical and punishes your legs. Easy running sections are followed by tough, technical, rocky and gnarly terrain.

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Crossing a main road at El Time you then have a couple of very steep road sections before the final drop down the stunning (and technical) zig-zag path to Tazacorte Port.

No warm up, from Tazacorte you go up for 18k

No warm up, from Tazacorte you go up for 18k

The GR131 stops here but the Transvulcania La Plama organizers have a sting in the tail… the final miles take you back up to the town of Los Llanos De Aridane where a rapturous welcome awaits. Believe me, you will have earned it!

Training Information

The Transvulcania La Palma is an incredible race on a stunning course. At 83km’s it is a real challenge. Dakota Jones won the 2012 edition of the race in an incredible 6:59:07. Believe me that time is fast… very fast! Take a step back and in real terms look at adding a minimum of 3 hours to Dakota’s time and keep an eye on the cut-off times. Of course I am speaking in general terms here.

The terrain underfoot falls into one of these categories: black lava sand, rocky lava sand, hard rocky lava, pine forests, tough gnarly rocks and a very small section of road. The terrain eats the grip on your shoes and I therefore would recommend a trail shoe with cushioning and grip. For example; Salomon Speedcross, Salomon Slab Softground, Scott eRide Grip2, Sportiva Raptor or similar… you get the drift! You always have exceptions to rules and for example Kilian Jornet (3rd 2012) and Andy Symonds (2nd 2012) used the lightweight Salomon Sense for the 2012 race. In general terms though, the average runner will need grip and cushioning to the ease the harshness of the terrain.

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The ability to handle technical terrain while maintaining a good pace is essential. This will come extremely important on the flatter sections and the long descent from Roque de Los Muchachos. If you can’t make up time here than you are most definitely in for a long day out.

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From the start at the lighthouse and until you reach the highest point of the course at 2436m you are arguably always going up. It ultimately all comes down to economy of effort and having a strategy and or ability that will allow you to make the summit with enough left to get to the finish. What should you do?

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  • Run with a short stride looking ahead constantly
  • Practice walking fast, uphill with your hands on your knees
  • Incorporate some long day hikes on hilly terrain
  • Run/ hike on loose sand uphill for long periods of time (a quarry would be good)
  • Run on hard packed trail for your speedier/ faster workouts
  • Find some gnarly, rocky terrain and practice running on it. Build up a confidence to move over it as quickly as possible
  • Add some strength and core work to your training if this is a weak area for you

In many respects, the Transvulcania La Palma is like any other trail or mountain race but it does have a combination of elements that make this a very tough course. Respect it. Without doubt it is one of the most beautiful I have experienced.

Practical Information

La Palma is a small island. The race starts at the southern most tip and finishes almost half way up the island on the west. Therefore your hotel decision for the race may very well depend on many factors such as:

  • Are you with family?
  • Are you staying just for the race?
  • Do you plan to stay on?

If travelling with family you may very well be better basing yourself at Los Llanos de Aridane as this is a town with shops, cafes and other facilities or at Tazacorte Port.

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Tazacorte Port has a beach, restaurants and cafes. Of course this will mean as a participant you will need to arrange for transport and/or an overnight stop at the race start for the race day. Please note the race starts very early!

If travelling just for the race weekend I would seriously consider looking at the options provided by the race organization at www.transvulcania.com They will have accommodation and travel packages that will provide you with all that you need.

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If you plan to stay in La Palma after the race my recommendation would be to base yourself in or around Los Llanos and then use this as a start point from which you can then travel from.

Hire Car

A hire car is essential and they are very affordable. La Palma is serviced by all the main providers at the airport; Avis, Hertz and Europcar. Cicar is a local hire company available here. Book in advance for the best deal.

Flights

Flights to La Palma can be a little tricky. If in doubt, fly to Tenerife and then book one of the many connections that are available. Again, the race organizers are providing packages and practical information to facilitate this at www.transvulcania.com. Thomson have just started a direct flight from Manchester to La Palma.

Weather

La Palma boasts year round good weather. In May it will be hot but not excessive. Travel light and cool and always ensure that you have a warm layer and/or windproof just in case.

Los Llanos de Aridane

Los Llanos is the largest and busiest town on the west side of La Palma with a population of just over 20,000. There are many modern buildings. It has a traffic-free centre and the surrounding side streets still retain their old character. Plaza de Espana is the hub of the town and a good place to have a cup of coffee and watch the world go by.

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You can see images of Los Llanos here: https://iancorless.org/photography/los-llanos-la-palma/

Tazacorte

Tazacorte is situated on the west side of the island and claims to be the warmest place on the island. It is divided into 2 villages.

Puerto de Tazacorte is on the coast and has a long promenade, a fishing harbour, a black sand beach and an area with boulevard, bars and (fish) restaurants. Tazacorte pueblo (village) as about 1km above the coast and is the main center with the town hall, post office, shops and supermarket.

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Market day : https://iancorless.org/photography/la-palma-tazacorte-market-day/

Recce, blogs and Images

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In December 2012 I spent two weeks running, hiking, jogging, walking and crawling over the Transvulcania La Palma course. My blog posts are available on iancorless.org and my images are filed in a logical order, starting at the lighthouse at Fuencaliente, moving through the route of the volcanoes, El Pilar, Cumbre Vueva and then Tazacorte as days here:

Fuencalientehttps://iancorless.org/photography/la-palma-fuencaliente/

Route of the Volcanoeshttps://iancorless.org/photography/la-palma-the-route-of-the-volcanoes/

El Pilarhttps://iancorless.org/photography/la-palma-el-pilar/

Cumbre Nuevahttps://iancorless.org/photography/roque-de-los-muchachos-la-palma/

Tazacortehttps://iancorless.org/photography/la-palma-tazacorte-to-roque-de-los-muchachos/

Blog Posts:

 Conclusion

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La Palma has been a revelation. I have now had the opportunity to see the island and the Transvulcania la Palma from two perspectives. In May I followed the race as a journalist/ photographer and got to see one of the most competitive races of the year unfold before my eyes.

In December I returned for a holiday, to spend time on the trails in some warm winter sun.

The people, the places, the food, the hospitality and the multitude of trails make La Palma the most perfect location for the enthusiastic runner or hiker. I have focused this post on the GR131 and the Transvulcania La Palma but trails are everywhere. From my base in the Caldera de Taburiente just outside Los Llanos de Aridane I also discovered and explored so many other incredible trails such as this circular route:

December in La Palma offered great weather allowing me to escape the winter grey and gloom of the UK to run in shorts and T-shirts on some of the most incredible terrain with the most stunning views.

I should point out that I did only explore the southwest corner of the island. I have been told, repeatedly, by friends that the island has so much more to offer.

La Palma and its network of trail may very well become a regular slot in my calendar moving forward…

I would like to thank Lourdes Plasencia, Julio Carbera Rocha, Lauri Van Houten, Marino Giacometti, Transvulcania La Palma and Skyrunning for all the help and support.

Finally, many thanks to Niandi for making the trails so enjoyable.

Skyrunning 2013

Marino Giacometti, ISF President, after the 2012 retrospect in the feature, “Looking back. Moving forward”, we publish an extract from a recent interview in two parts by the Spanish website, www.carreraspormontana.com on the near and long term future of skyrunning.

Part I

Marino Giacometti. © ISF

Why did you change the SWS format for the next season?

The format in 2012 was already new.  The Trials system was abolished and the Ultras were introduced but the Main Races and a combined title remained.  Already in July at the Annual General Assembly, the new formula for 2013 was in place with a view to separating the distances and to have a clean and simple ranking system.  2012 was a year of transition between the two formats which proved problematical with the ranking and some of the new ultra distances races, but in many aspects, was extremely positive with the participation of some of the world’s top ultra athletes who hadn’t yet had a taste of skrunning and their positive feedback on the skyrunning concept – tough, technical races at altitude – thus re-affirming our heritage.

2013 was the final evolution into three separate categories and the abolition of the combined title and compulsory races. The different distances attract specialists from each discipline – there aren’t many runners like Kilian that excel in all three!  Skyrunning is about racing vertical, short, medium and long distances…at altitude of course.

One of the novelties is the first 100-mile race. Why now?

On embracing the Ultra concept, it was a natural evolution.  The demand is out there too and we listen to what the runners want.  We had been considering the Ultras for some time and were observing their development. After many mountaineering expeditions and speed records in the Himalayas and in South America, including in winter, I have a pretty good idea where sport finishes and survival begins… Running at night, cold and rain, is not only sport, but adventure and survival.

A Federation must always put the safety of the athletes above all else and I admit I had some apprehension in including the 100-miler although I got the support of the federation’s members to go ahead as well as the support of the Ronda dels Cims organisers.  Sports and mountain federations have a moral obligation to work with organisers and athletes for safety, preparation, equipment and guidelines.  We intend to lead this cause with the direct collaboration of organisers and athletes, pooling our resources for an optimum result.  On our side we offer 20 years of experience (having created and organised 80 races worldwide at high altitude and co-ordinated ten years of the World Series).

Will we see more 100milers in SWS in the future?

Probably yes.  We are examining some options for 2014.  Within the SWS we want to keep a balance with the long and ultra long distances. Throughout the season, an athlete can do many Sky or 50 km races, but of course can’t compete at top level in more than two or three longer distance races a year. We’re working on a world ranking (of the most representative races) covering 20 ultra, 20 sky and 10 vertical to list the world’s top athletes.

Marino Giacometti. © ISF

What’s your opinion about the launch of the ultramarathon series this year?

First I need to go back to explain our heritage – which lies generally in marathon distance races, but at high altitude which makes a huge difference.  Don’t forget that mountains are measured by their vertical climb, not distance (as Kilian Jornet points out – counting hours and vertical climb, not distance). Our first race in 1992, from Courmayeur to the summit of Mont Blanc was 54 km but with 3,900m of positive vertical climb – half of which above 2,000m altitude!

The races we organised in Nepal, Tibet, Kenya, Mexico and America, were marathon distance, but at high altitude between 4,000 and 5,2000 metres. That means 5 hours for the winners and 12 hours for a normal runner.  We also organised a 24 hour ascent race in Val d’Isère and, in 2002, the week-long crossing of the Alps from Courmayeur to Cortina…

Now back to this year – twenty years on. For some time we had been receiving requests to include Ultra distance races and, apart from the Kima Trophy (50 km), which we created in 1994, we immediately embraced the Transvulcania Ultramarathon (83 km) as it so perfectly embodied the skyrunning concept.  The other three races proved problematical, due to a different approach by the organisers and seriously bad weather.   The Ultra Series was a learning experience and has given us the tools to move forward and to create organisers’ and participants’ guidelines for the future.  With the support of the athletes, we are convinced we’re on the right path and consequently were confident to include the first 100-miler next year.

Earlier, you spoke about the 100 mile race. Why did you introduce it now?

On embracing the Ultra concept, it was a natural evolution.  The demand is out there too and we listen to what the runners want.  We had been considering the Ultras for some time and were observing their development. After many mountaineering expeditions and speed records in the Himalayas and in South America, including in winter, I have a pretty good idea where sport finishes and survival begins… Running at night, cold and rain, is not only sport, but adventure and survival. A Federation must always put the safety of the athletes above all else and I admit I had some apprehension in including the 100-miler although I got the support of the federation’s members to go ahead as well as the support of the Ronda dels Cims organisers.  Sports and mountain federations have a moral obligation to work with organisers and athletes for safety, preparation, equipment and guidelines.  We intend to lead this cause with the direct collaboration of organisers and athletes, pooling our resources for an optimum result.  On our side we offer 20 years’ experience after creating and organising 80 races worldwide at high altitude and co-ordinating the World Series for ten years.

Will we see more 100 milers in the SWS in the future?

Probably yes.  We are examining some options for 2014.  Within the SWS we want to keep a balance with the long and ultra long distances. Throughout the season, an athlete can do many Sky or 50 km races, but of course can’t compete at top level in more than two or three longer distance races a year. We’re working on a world ranking (of the most representative races) covering 20 ultra, 20 sky and 10 vertical to list the world’s top athletes.

Part II

What are the major challenges the ISF is facing in the near future?

The ISF is the only international running federation operating at high altitude in the mountains. Our main objective is to offer a concrete point of reference for athletes and organisers, to develop the sport with our members and future members with national circuits.  In other words, to grow the sport on an international level together with the principal players:  the runners,organisers and industry.

A major challenge is represented in growing the sport globally. In a sport that takes place in the mountains, it’s difficult to find a balance between growing the number of participants while capping races for safety and ecological reasons.  It’s clearly not a spectator sport and therefore can’t compete with the big league sports and mainstream media.  The federation doesn’t receive public funds like many other similar organisations, which partially limits the scope, but we believe with the backing of the runners, organisers and industry we can go far.

In growing the sport we must turn to the industry and a growing number of companies are investing in this new sector, lead by Salomon and The North Face in Europe. Companies with a traditional sports background are breaking out into outdoor and trail, such as Adidas, Asics, New Balance… The industry must invest in their testimonals and ambassadors to enable runners to become professionals …..

We aim to keep skyrunning open to investors in all areas, races, teams, individuals, because only with investment right across the board can the sport grow.

What is the role of the Athletes Commission?

A number of top international athletes volunteered and were elected to stand on the Athletes Commission, which this year has finally become fully active.  Their role is invaluable in the development and strategy of the sport, their consultation on a number of issues (including those pertinent to the Board or Management Committee) and generally to represent a voice for runners. This important role reflects the ISF philosophy where the athlete is central to its development.

Year after year, there are more races outside Europe, especially in the US. Do you think there’s more interest in the SWS there?

The participation of many top American ultra runners this year (Dakota Jones, Anton Krupicka, Rickey Gates, Joe Grant, Nick Clarke and Ian Sharman, Mike Wolfe, Geoff Roes, Joe Grant, Alex Nichols, Nikki Kimball, Darcy Africa) and WMRA world champions, like Marco De Gasperi, Max King, Kasie Enman and Stevie Kremer competed in SWS races on both sides of the Atlantic is proof enough.

At the Seminar held in May on La Palma, for a new generation of American runners, the skyrunning concept was a revelation and the outcome was a desire for steeper, more technical races in the US. In the next couple of years I’m confident you will start seeing this kind of race modelled on the skyrunning concept, rather that the typical runnable trail/no switchback cutting formula we have seen up to now.

Forestry permits are an important reason for this in the US, but from 1993-1998 we conceived and organized many races at 4,000m altitude in Colorado, with the relevant permits of course.  (Practically all the races take place in national parks or protected areas across the world and, working with sensitive race directors and following the proper guidelines, don’t represent a threat to the environment).   It all depends how you go about it.

The choice of the 2013 Ultra Series final in Vail, was an open door on our part and on the part of European runners to share the concept on US soil.  American team managers will now begin to support their runners to attend events in Europe and further afield and Europeans will do likewise.

How is the ISF working towards making skyrunning an Olympic sport?

On our foundation in 2008 we started off basing our Statues on those of the Olympic Charter with a view of following that road.  After a meeting with the IOC Committee in July 2011 and subsequent meetings with consultants and athletes alike, there is no question that skyrunning will continue to carry out the sport in the mountains, for us, the only conceivable arena.

Possibly the short steep vertical distances and the skyscraper races could fit into an Olympic format, but whatever the case, as things stand, 50 member countries are required and 2020/24 would be the earliest opportunity. Our heritage is the mountains and we have enough conviction and support to carry on developing the sport right there.

We suggested to the IOC to stage an “Outdoor Olympic Games”, similar to the Winter Olympics.  The idea was well accepted, but until there is more money in this area, it will remain nothing more than a dream for many…and possibly a nightmare for others.

What are your aims for the next SWS?

The continued affirmation of the Skyrunner® World Series as a point of reference for global outdoor running, our first 100-miler, the new races, the pleasure of repeating successful quality events.   Next year the participation and ranking of teams will have a special focus and we look forward to the participation of the world’s top runners and all those who aspire to skyrunning at the highest levels, to measure their performance or just to see Kilian running with ease, where they are struggling.  More emotion, more inspiration!

European Skyrunning Championships 2013

Emelie Forsberg, winner 2012 Dolomites SkyRace®. © Pegaso Media

Every two years the European Skyrunning Championships are celebrated and 2013 is no exception.  The big news is the inclusion for the first time of the ultra distance.  The venue is all-Italian with the Vertical Kilometer® and SkyRace® in Canazei, Dolomites on July 19 and 21, while the Ultra will take place just six days later in the nearby Veneto Region.

The Dolomites will again host two of the events in the three-year history of the Championships.  The record on the unforgiving Vertical Kilometer®course just 2,1 km long, stands at 33’16” by world record holder Italian Urban Zemmer and Antonella Confortola in 39’13” back in 2008 when the course was inaugurated.

The classic Dolomites SkyRace® favoured by the world’s top runners offers a new challenge after record-breaking performances here this year by Kilian Jornet in 2h01’52”, and the three top women, Sweden’s Emelie Forsberg, American Kasie Enman and Spaniard Mireia Mirò – all under record time.  Forsberg’s record stands at 2h26’00”.

Trans d'Havet. ©Augusto Mia Battaglia

The challenging and often technical course represents one of the toughest proving grounds for the relatively short distance:  22 km but with 1,750m climb to the summit of the Piz Boè which, at 3,152m altitude, towers above the start and finish of the race in Canazei.

The much anticipated Ultra is embodied by the Trans d’Havet, a point to point 80 km long with 5,500m vertical climb traversing the Piccole Dolomiti in the Veneto Region.  The route, technical in stretches, includes 6 km of tunnels dating back to the First World War, created by General D’Havet, to whose name the race is dedicated.

At the launch this year, the men’s winning time was 10h58’44”, no doubt destined to fall with the top European runners participating here in 2013.

Following on from the Dolomites SkyRace® on the 21st, five days’ activities and fun-packed action are being organised for runners who want to stay over for the Trans d’Havet.  More news on this later.

The European Skyrunning Championships are open with individual titles at stake in each discipline and a combined title based on the sum of the highest points scored in two out of three events. The national title is based on the score of the first three men and one woman in all three events.

2013 European Skyrunning Championships

VK

Dolomites Vertical Kilometer®, Canazei, Trento, July 19

Sky

Dolomites SkyRace®, Canazei, Trento, July 21

Ultra

Trans d’Havet, 80k, Piovene R. Piccole Dolomiti, Vicenza – July 27

El Pilar – La Palma

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Days don’t get much better than our 7 hour jaunt in the mountains of the Cumbre Nueva on the island of La Palma yesterday.

Slowly but surely, Niandi and myself have now covered the whole route of the Transvulcania La Palma and what a route it is…. it so varied. Lava, dark black sand, rocks, pine forests, hard packed trail and so on. The course constantly changes beneath your feet and with it the weather too. One moment you can be in bright blue skies with mid 20 degree temperatures and then suddenly a bank of cloud engulfs you and the temperature drops.

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Yesterday we started our day at El Pilar, arguably about a third of the way into the whole Transvulcania La Palma route. Our object was to continue up the course toward Roque de los Muchachos but stop at the point we had reached on a previous run. This was Pico de la Nieve on the rim of the Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente with Roque de los Muchachos in sight in a north west direction.

It was an incredible day on the mountain with terrain, views and weather constantly changing. We had the trails to ourselves only coming across three other people all day.

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The running from El Pilar for approximately 8k was pretty easy and then the climbing begins once again and it is all about managing your effort as once again you head up well above 2000m. Both Niandi and myself felt pretty good. We are not worried about pace or constant running. We are on the mountain having fun… running when we can, jogging when we can’t run, hiking when we can’t jog and then crawling when required ;-).

My only issue yesterday was my knees. The long descent back to El Pilar took its toll in the final hours and I have to say that from hour 6 to 7 when we finished was a touch uncomfortable. So, it’s an easy morning today with some sightseeing and maybe a couple of hours on the trails later this afternoon to get our fix! We are here for another week after all….

Images from the day can be seen HERE

Here are a few highlights:

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Roque de los Muchachos – La Palma

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After yesterdays 8 hour epic on the trails starting at sea level and going up; straight up to 2400m both Niandi and myself decided on a shorter run today. Or plan was to drive to the summit of the Transvulcania la Palma course at Roque de los Muchachos and run around the rim of the Caldera de Taburiente all at above 2000m. We would run ant- clockwise of the Transvulcania course and then turnaround and come back.

The drive from Los Lllanos takes just over an hour on some twisty winding roads but one bonus, at least for Niandi was that she noticed the Sunday market in Tazacorte en route… at a risk of sounding sexist; women and markets go together (I like them too). So Niandi could fulfil her shopping needs, usually local and typical jewellery and I could get some photos. I love to capture the people at markets. Not stop and and ask them to pose but sneak up on them and capture them incognito. You can see all of them HERE

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Back in the car, onward and upward we finally reached the summit at ‘Muchachos’. I kept telling Niandi how incredible this place is. As she got out of the car her expression changed as she saw a blanket of cloud cover the mountains and peaks breaking through. It brought back memories of May when I watched Kilian Jornet, Dakota Jones and Andy Symonds race around the rim and come towards me before finally dropping for the descent to Tazacorte (our run yesterday).

We spent 30 minutes being ‘tourists’. This summit area is like a James Bond film set with a lunar landscape and observatories dotted here and there.

Time to run! The first thing that was noticeable was the altitude and secondly in comparison to yesterday when we had lterally climbed for 5 hours, today we could run much more. A stunning day.

A full selection of images are available HERE

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Caldera de Taburiente – La Palma

La Isla Bonita - Transvulcania La Palma

La Isla Bonita – Transvulcania La Palma

Niandi and myself have arrived on the island of La Palma – ‘La Isla Bonita’ – the home of the Transvulacania La Palma.

We are here for a working holiday. By that I mean we are here on holiday but still working as and when we feel like. We both have commitments that we need to fulfil while out on the island but we plan to be really flexible… of course I have another episode of Talk Ultra to get out. Based on how slow the wifi is here in our apartment that may be a real challenge.

Anyway, we decided NOT to to ease ourselves into this and went out for a full on 8 hours on the trail on our first day. Considering the longest run I have done in the last 17/18 weeks has been 75 min (due to dodgy knees) that was somewhat optimistic. However, I knew that this was not gong to be a run… more of a tough long hike with some jogging (mostly downhill).

The Transvulcania course starts in the south of the island and heads up the spine to the dramatic Roque de Los Muchachos at 2426m and then from here you basically have a 32-36k drop back to the sea at Tazacorte and then a run into the finish at Los Llanos.

Niandi and myself don’t have the luxury of multiple cars or drop/ pick ups so pretty much all our days out will be out and back.

Today we went from the sea at Tazacorte Port and went straight up to 2400m, had a picnic, turned around and came straight back down.

An incredible day on the trails and while friends back in the UK struggled with snow and ice we had T shirts and shorts on for the whole trek. The course offers some tough technical terrain, the views are dramatic and once above the cloud one really does feel like a ‘Skyrunner’ quite literally.

I personally had a great day. The longest on my feet for months BUT dropping from 2400m to sea level in one go DID test the knees. It wasn’t pretty at times but I am happy.

Here are some images from the day:

No warm up, from Tazacorte you go up for 18k

No warm up, from Tazacorte you go up for 18k

Caves in the rock face - once homes!

Caves in the rock face – once homes!

Follow the GR markers

Follow the GR markers

Niandi has a break

Niandi has a break

About 1800m up, still a way to go...

About 1800m up, still a way to go…

Running through the cloud was incredible

Running through the cloud was incredible

Just stunning

Just stunning

Once through the cloud layer the views are incredible and the temp was 20+ deg

Once through the cloud layer the views are incredible and the temp was 20+ deg

After 7 hours on the trail, with just 1 hour to go we get to see the sun disappear.

After 7 hours on the trail, with just 1 hour to go we get to see the sun disappear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

L’Ice Trail Tarentaise 2013 – Skyrunning

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The Ice Trail Tarantaise (ITT) is unique. Its course is exclusively at high altitude (1850m alt min) which is the highest in Europe ( medium altitude and altitude max.) and secondly, by the Summit La Grande Motte which is located at 3653m above sea level making this the highest trail in Europe.

Fancy a challenge? Registration open soon HERE

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You can view the official website HERE

Skyrunning website available HERE

Anton Krupicka in Europe

Anton Krupicka talks about New Balance and his experiences of being in and around Barcelona for the Skyrunning Cavalls del Vent 2012

You Tube clip HERE

Tony Krupicka in Europe

Presented by New Balance Spain

Tony expresses his gratitude for the opportunity to race the iconic Cavalls del Vent.

As Tony says “Kilian Jornet, Miguel Heras and Tofol Castanyer are the top mountain runners in the world…. ”

Tony placed second overall in the race behind Kilian Jornet. His fellow countryman Dakota Jones placed third.

Looking back, Moving forward – Skyrunning

Looking back over the 2012 skyrunning season, it was, to say the least, an intensive year. It was a year of major transition from the past format of main races and trials, to the introduction of the Ultra distance and separate circuits. The transition was complicated and not without difficulties but it paved the way for a completely revised 2013 format.

The start. Ultra Cavalls del Vent. ©ISF

The season saw triumph and tragedy, great champions, bright young stars, new races and spectacular locations.

At the beginning of the season in May, the introduction of the Ultra Series wrote a new page in skyrunning history. The Transvulcania Ultra Marathon not only perfectly embodied skyrunning’s “sea to sky” concept, but had probably the deepest field of world class runners to date, including American legends like Anton Krupicka, Geoff Roes, Rickey Gates, Mike Wolfe Joe Grant and 21year-old Dakota Jones who went on to win the race.  Dakota, Tony and Joe came back for more…

Nuria Picas, winner Kima Trophy. ©ISF

The more gruelling courses typical of European skyrunning have almost surprisingly gone down well with the American runners, giving us the conviction to keep it “tough and technical“ rather than provide a watered-down version to appeal to a wider public – something to look forward to on the other side of the Atlantic next year together with a selection of the best that Europe has to offer…and our first 100-miler.

The 2012 SkyMarathon® Ultra Series has represented the first and most important encounter among top European and American Ultra runners with a level so high that all the mens’ race records in the Series were broken! Legendary ultra runners competing in the Series (apart from those mentioned above) include: Kilian Jornet, Ikker Karera, Andy Symonds, Dawa Sherpa, Francois D’Haene, Erik Clavery, Seb Chaigneau and among the women:  Nuria Picas, Anna Frost, Lizzy Hawker, Maud Gobert, Darcy Africa, and Nikki Kimball.

Kilian Jornet the sport’s top star, yet again gave a command performance taking not only the World Series combined title, but also the Ultra Series title, totalling seven outright victories and two third positions in all three disciplines.  2011 World Series champion Luis Alberto Hernando placed second and Britain’s Tom Owens moved steadily up the ranking to take third position.  Ultra Series’ runner-up was Andy Symonds and Germany’s Philipp Reiter placed third.

Emelie Forsberg, Nuria Picas, Anna Frost. Ultra Cavalls winners. ©ISFIt’s in the women’s field that the most rapid revolution lies however. Young, talented runners with no skyrunning history debut and rise to glory in just one season and, note, women are finishing in the top ten overall, closing the gender gap.  Sweden’s Emelie Forsberg is one of these ladies.  Twenty-five years-old, she ran her first skyrunning race just this year and in only one season conquered the World Series combined title in a field stacked with highly competitive Spanish runners like Nuria Picas, Blanca Maria Serrano and Nuria Dominguez.

Nuria Picas has finally shown that talent and determination go a long way by winning some of the toughest races on the Series.  She finished second after Forsberg in the World Series combined ranking and won the Ultra Series outright. Anna Frost, after a superb start at the Transvulcania Ultra, was plagued by injury throughout the season but fought tenaciously for a second position in the Ultra ranking where Forsberg placed third.

Kilian Jornet & Tony Krupicka, 1st and 2nd at Cavalls.  ©Ian Corless

Alongside Forsberg, another star was born: 23 year-old Italian, Silvia Serafini who, like Forsberg, began skyrunning just this year, testing her skills in all three disciplines to climb to third position in the world ranking.

Two world records highlighted the Vertical Kilometer® Series on the gruelling course in Fully, Switzerland with1,000 metres elevation gain over just 1.9 km distance.  The men’s record of 30’42” set by Italian Urban Zemmer is just a short step from climbing at 2,000 metres per hour – upwards! French runner Christel Dewalle set the women’s record in 36’48”.  Overall Vertical Kilometer® Series champions were Urban Zemmer and Spain’s Laura Orgué.

In 2012, prize money amounting to €140,000 (including the Series’ final prizes) was awarded to 148 athletes. The figures are still small for the huge effort and incredible performances involved, but as the sport grows, prize money will do like-wise. Complimentary accommodation, travel subsidies and promotion are more ways that a top runner can benefit – and so will the sponsor.  Major industry players are now investing in trail running and many brands have top runners and teams participating in the Series.  See Team ranking

Media coverage of skyrunning events reached new heights this year from print to websites, blogs and social media, to videos, podcasts and television on a global level.  A big thanks goes to all those who followed the skyrunning heroes through thick and thin, in heat and cold and darkness, breaking news in real time and capturing high-flying emotions in images, text and videos.

Look out for the 2013 Skyrunner® World Series calendar to be announced next week.  We’ll be focussing on new events and personalities, a worldwide ranking for runners and races, regulations and safety issues as well as the announcement of the 2013 European and 2014 World Championships.

Cavalls del Vent video

Nice video here that captures the Skyrunning Cavalls del Vent 2012

It was an epic race in epic conditions. Kilian Jornet took the win ahead on on Tony Krupicka with Dakota Jones in third.

In the ladies race, local lady Nuria Picas ran an awesome race to win ahead of Anna Frost and Emelie Forsberg

Cavalls del Vent 2012